Imagination as a raw material
New treatments, new systems, new applications… Not content to simply listen to fashion and renew the designs of their products in line with the latest trends, exhibitors, who are used to being challenged by the sometimes surprising requests from their clients, also brought to their stands some astonishing items, including technical improvements and brand-new solutions. This is what gives their collections that personal, unique and offbeat touch, so popular with designers. It doesn’t matter whether they work with leather, horn, metal or plastic, their primary raw material is imagination.
CROSS CUTTING TRENDS
3D? That’s too ordinary! Now we’re talking about 2.5D – welcome to spaces that do not really exist, false perspectives, convex shapes that one would swear are concave and vice versa, effects of infinite depth, optical vortexes, disconcerting facets…
Zips show their teeth, jewels bare their claws, points are sharper and clasps make satisfying clicks. In this rather harsh universe, somewhat bad boy, bling-bling or luxury punk, accessories are on the defensive, opulent, dazzling, faultless – and inescapable.
Accessori Val Vibrata
How can there be factories without workers? Technology will never replace the unique output and abilities of human handiwork. So many things cannot be produced digitally. Painting, embroidery, weaving, but also bespoke orders. This is the simplest, noblest and most efficient method for achieving exclusivity.
TRENDS BY PRODUCTS
For buttons, we hesitate between geometric rigour and baroque craziness. But for all styles, metallic enamelled or lacquered buttons are essential: everyone can choose their own colour. Opaque or translucent is optional, but this season, manufacturers are offering very unusual transparency effects, such as the “polveroso” finish from FBMA. Domed or hollowed shapes can accentuate the captivating effect of a glittering transparency, like the examples from Meynier.
During this time, the menswear market is being won over by diamanté. We noticed many tiny crystals placed in the middle of circular buttons, or even four tiny crystals pretending to be holes: a charming trompe-l’oeil effect for shank buttons.
Bestseller: Many manufacturers were of the opinion that sew-on press fasteners, already the star of last season, were once again very popular.
New: buttons covered with a wood veneer, guaranteed to be washable, from Tarducci Massimo
Best-seller: tiny translucent enamel buttons from Corne et Corozzo
This a good time for embroidery, particularly when it sparkles with Lurex, glitter threads, beads, sequins or iridescent plastic.
Dense beaded embroidery, a combination of studs, plastic tubes, rocky beads and sew-one gems, were popular in all sorts of styles: ethnic, romantic, baroque or rocker. Often the decorations are rich, dense and proudly exuberant.
More classically, textured embroidered flowers, in very fresh colours, were appreciated on the formalwear market.
There are shoulder straps in the air. They would be made from technical webbing, revisited according to customer desires.
The technical buckle is popular in the luxury sector in versions made of pale gold or hand-sheathed in leather from Tarducci Massimo, or precious in a small format from Muehlmeier. Eyelets cultivate the simplicity of impeccable, circular or elongated shapes. They are generally large and as beautiful underneath as they are above.
Thanks to their customisable polyurethane ribbon, waterproof zips were a hit in the fashion world.
Note: technical accessories being adopted for jewellery, notably nylon straps from Janisset.
New: Nastroelle is producing a new and truly transparent, ultra-thin adhesive that is resistant to ageing and yellowing. For assemblages that are as meticulous as they are solid.
Beware, jewellery is mean, fatal, even venomous! Jagged points, sharp angles, horn or claw-like shapes in shiny metal encase shimmering stones as if to protect them. No less disturbing, insects were definitely noted as being best sellers.
Transparent or translucent plastics full of fissures, marbling or cracks will be used to compose bracelets or pearl-like agate beads. Stones are generally shiny and faceted, but their size, without being irregular, has been deliberately twisted. In turn, pendants in brushed metal also succeeded in making an impact. In general, plastic was a popular choice: minimum weight, maximum effect, with the bonus of a carefree attitude, ideal for beachwear.
It should be noted that a few cameos made an appearance.
Embroidered elements, collars, bib fronts, buttons or brooches, such as from Mode de Vie or Simona B, made a place for themselves between jewellery and textile patches.
Simona B. Collection’s
New: customised diamanté using laser engraving from Swarovski
New: Preciosa launches the Chaton Rose Maxima, its 18 facets bouncing back 264 highlights.
Labels and packaging
The trend oscillates between ultra-precise refinement and ecological rawness. While woven labels are ever finer and more compact, cardboard labels are as simple as possible. Paper is a noble, even luxurious material. Stelmar is launching a paper envelope that has been bonded with cork, giving the modest impression of a Kraft wrapper, to pack T-shirts or trinkets in store.
Small is beautiful: mini hangers rather than clips, mini totes rather than a pouch.
Bestseller: Damask labels from MET are extremely refined, where the lettering can be identified from the contrasting matt/shiny finish with a very light relief.
Met Manifattura Etichette Tessute
Our favourite: the artisanal labels from Dienpi made from recycled jeans, coffee and even including seeds, to be planted in the earth after use.
Lace and machine embroidery
For lace, the demand is for very fine designs created using clean, dry threads. Entredeux are very popular and appear with fine and pointed edges. From what could be seen in the aisles, it looks as if voilette might be making a comeback?
Ready-to-dye broderie anglaise is a sure bet. Fluorescent or reflective threads, borrowed from workwear, are making an incursion into fashion.
Metallic or plastic accessories
There is a large choice of clasps this season. Their mechanics with a clean click must be perfect and pleasant to use. The tendency is for mirrored finishes, in pale gold if possible. There was no restraint in either thickness or size, no concern for weight: do what it takes!
New: ABC Morini has perfected a new clasp with a pivoting system.
Enamelled metal and diamanté-incrusted metal are vying for first place. Crazioni Valli solved the problem by combining both techniques on its buckles and buttons. Zip GFD presents its zip with lacquered teeth. It is true that this season, zips are really baring their teeth. Shiny, long, large – that’s all we can see.
Our favourite: Eurozipper for its zips with teeth in the shape of flowers, skulls, stars, etc.
Euro-A zipper & Accessory
People were clearly keen on hand-made items and appreciated combinations of manual and mechanical techniques, such as those of Dipama Italia, where digital prints were embellished with brushstrokes.
New: Lustrosa proposes inclusions under PVC or polyester, to be cut out into sequins. The client can chose the elements to be embedded (fabric, dried flowers or other items) and can therefore obtain an exclusive decoration that is perfectly synchronised with their collection.
Our favourite: decorations in domed silicon, from Lunas, entitled “Doming”. These are 39 x 50 cm supple panels that can be adapted to voluminous objects such as shoes or bags.
The studded panels can be decorated in a myriad of ways. Coloured balls, facetted pyramids, square or trapezium-shaped studs, in contrasting stripes – there is no end of choice from Ramponi or Lampa, to name just a few.
Interior accessories are the focus of fashion details for menswear. The waistband interfacing indicates the elegance of a pair of trousers. In this area, the chino is more open to fashion trends than jeans, which stayed rather classic. We make good use of digital printing to meet last-minute requests. The menswear market is increasingly demanding stretch waistbands interfacings.
Whether it is cords, straps, trimmings or laces, there is one watchword for all collections: it has to shine. Lamé is absolutely everywhere, even in articles in folk cotton or country linen. Raffia is popular for its softness, its shine, its lightness and the beautiful finish of its colours. A light South American wind is blowing over coloured, even neon and sparkling weaves.
Nastrificio Banci Gualtiero
Footwear and leather goods accessories
The wide belt is back once again. The tendency is to wear it loosely hanging low on the hips, with a very pronounced ethnic vibe: in raw leather, croco or raffia, belts oscillate between a wild, rustic and irregular appearance, with primitive decoration based on clever braiding and colourful details.
I.S.G. Italian Stylistic Group
Bag handles, when they are short, are deliberately imposing: huge braiding, thick, sheathed straps, leather macramé and to conclude, pompoms or Chinese balls in thick strips of leather.
The belt buckle sometimes takes on grandiloquent dimensions, covered in mink from Tarducci Massimo or in the form of a golden, sculpted frame from Fibel.
Transparent heels continue to inspire exhibitors. Their shapes, whether grooved, domed or hollowed are experimenting with new balances. But covered, painted or diamanté heels represent serious competition to them.
Our favourite: the mother-of-pearl veneer from Pianetta Gemme, flexible enough to decorate an arched or jewelled heel.
© Carole Desheulles – Première Vision
PREMIERE VISION ACCESSORIES – HALL 4