New developments for accessories
Clearly, accessories are the reeds of the fable. Their agility, their versatility and their polymorphism enable them to find solutions to all situations.
The menswear market is reviving, and this renaissance will involve buttons, belts, buckles and decorations because, as we all know, dandyism is in the details.
And are e-textiles about to go mainstream? Because the sensors and chips will be located in the buttons, straps, elastics, soles and labels of these ‘smart garments’.
Do shoes ‘make’ the look? The Shoe Focus forum is there for that reason, but that is not all, because shoes, and particularly sneakers, are taking inspiration from all sectors in order to customise their style.
So many potential developments that open up new horizons for accessories.
Always at the cutting-edge of fashion and hyper-reactive, accessories illustrate the trends of the moment.
Digital printing for customisation has made even more progress in accessories and now it is the turn of the jewellery world to get involved.
The merging of styles leads to the merging of materials: There is a gradual shift from matt to shiny, crystal to metal, leather to silicon, lace to mesh. Bonding is perfect: just like for sports and fashion, you can’t see the join anymore. Accessories with a foot in each camp are the stars of the show.
The Art Deco influence. A geometric wind was blowing over the season, with checks, fans, diamonds, articulated triangles and weaving appearing in all categories of accessories, a major influence.
Blue: Not just because of jeanswear. Exhibitors surpassed themselves with this colour. In turn they gave it an abyssal and translucent deepness, a gelatinous and iridescent paleness, a stimulating freshness marbled with white – blue is a poem.
Buttons have returned to standard sizes and shapes, but are laden with subtle details that make all the difference. Textured buttons imitate fabric, leather or shagreen.
Clients are clamouring for natural materials once again: horn, corozo, wood, galalith, mother-of-pearl and metal.
The menswear market is looking for a touch of glamour with enhanced classics and discreet shine: rubbery textures, gold thread, dark enamel, secret iridescences.
Shirts are smartening up: small buttons in trompe l’oeil shirting, laser cut-outs like lace in armorial metal, dyed “ivory” finishes – and of course, the finishing touch, cuff links!
NEW: A silky texture on semi-matt buttons from Rosenfelder.
Sew-on press studs are making a gentle return, in natural materials. And snap fasteners are the occasion to play with two-tone / two-material effects.
Enamel is confirmed as a strong trend, supporting the desire for intense and brilliant colours.
NEW: buttons in two-tone enamel using an exclusive technique developed by FBMA buttons.
A good season for technical webbing that has become beautiful: We like it in two-tone and double-sided, stripy or damask finishes, with elaborate reinforcements for elegant and modern belts, bags and shoes.
Elastic bands are not only functional; they are also decorative when printed, flocked or covered in sequins.
Very important: Belt and pocket linings should also be attractive.
Of course, in the denim family, faded indigo cotton appears in webbing, cords, trimmings, braid, ribbons, etc.
Trimmings are not limited to silky items: cotton, linen and transparent finishes give them a more contemporary appearance.
Leather and accessories for leather goods
Belts are still scoring points. Of a classic, even narrow width, they are totally unisex. They oscillate between webbing and leather, but whichever is chosen, they come in a range of colours and tend to be revitalised, with a high-tech luxury style.
Woven panels are still popular.
But we are also seeing a revival of ultra-simple interlacings of reinforced canvas, in checks, tartans etc.
A rising trend: leather blended with plastic, silicon or spacers for ‘sports chic’ style accessories.
OUR FAVOURITE: belts painted with tropical designs from Metal Service.
Embroidery and lace
Jeanswear is transporting laces and embroideries in its wake. Faded indigo guipures and embroidered, diamanté-encrusted chambrays have a relaxed romantic look, completed with democratic broderie anglaise, with very tiny holes.
Metal, leather, wicker, buttons, polyurethane – everything can be embroidered, not just fabrics!
The inspiration of the season: making checks and stripes in embroidery, notably from Broderies Langlet.
Diamanté, beads and small shiny objects bring their glitter to guipures, nets, mesh and tulle, made to be worn every day. They give these products a weight and drape that is heavy and sensual.
We observed strong demand for high-quality grommets: with attractive polished finishes, two-tone settings, coated in leather or suede, in generally larger formats with circular or elongated finishes.
Decorative reflective articles are now a city basic, whether they take the form of prints, transfers, piping, labels, etc.
NEW: JRC Reflex makes its items more lightweight, ideal for the sportswear sector, as well as many others!
Note: The growing demand for accessories (capsules or others) capable of receiving chips or sensors.
Metallic or plastic articles
Buckles and clasps are liberally inspired by technical buckles in designs that are more streamlined, in polished metal.
We saw many small chains, such as collar chains for shirts: A small but essential accessory for the true dandy.
Two-tone chains (painted and then ground) attracted attention.
Invisible zips have come out of the shadows: In a separable version, they provide a solution to the growing demand for jackets and blousons with a smooth design.
Spectacular, ultra high relief transfers from Platin Transfert in shiny acrylic, adapted for use in the leather goods or jewellery sectors.
Studs were everywhere still. Studs in enhanced plastic from Eddy Ricami, in painted metal from Lunas and even in natural horn from Zanchi. The “nanostuds” can even imitate over-stitching.
Les « nanoclous » peuvent imiter des surpiqûres.
NEW: Using a soluble thread, Lustrosa can add sequins and beads to any support material.
Bees, butterflies, dragonflies – a swarm of diamanté insects have been released on summer 2017!
But for necklaces and jewellery sets, the trend is for a more geometric and cloisonné art deco style where enamel is the star, as well as sections of reflective plastic cut at sharp right angles.
Whilst diamanté sometimes takes on a mysterious sheen: oxidised or darkened bases, matt, milky, marbled finishes.
There is also a trend of blends of stone and metal with almost imperceptible differences that generate surprising faded effects.
Note: The Graphic Print from Swarovski, a technique that allows patterns to be included under and in the crystals, creating 3D effects.
NEW: Sew-on gems like agate beads from Creazione Valli
Sandals and sneakers share the spotlight.
On the one hand, sneaker uppers are outdoing each other with their creativity. They combine materials, embossing, printing and laser cut-outs.
On the other hand, abundantly bejewelled strappy sandals showcase wood, plastic, metal, diamanté and leather.
While light soles are the most popular choice, the uppers are decorated, notable with decorated welts: chains or woven trimmings in transparent plastic, lacquered plastic, sequined studs. Heel and toe cap decorations are not to be outdone, and take the opportunity to introduce colour and shine.
BEST SELLER: The “spoiler” from Britigraf, a customisable sneaker heel stabiliser: A tidal wave!
Markings, labels, packaging
We note a constant presence of high relief labels and tickets, sometimes completely hollowed-out.
For direct markings, the beauty of metal is still popular but with the lightness and flexibility of plastic thanks to metallic transfers.
An interesting development: Those who produce “made in France” items want it to be known, each in their own way: Pictograms, logos, insignia, labels…
Combining an ecologic approach with inspiration from Primitive Art, labels sometimes look as though they have been made using off-cuts of materials. Bit of leather, sheets of rough wood, pieces of canvas or crumpled papers take on random formats with the addition of decorative over-sized stitches.
Solid and light, Tyvek is popular for being more modern than paper.
On the packaging side, it is not only suitcases that can be customised: For the elegant, suit covers and shoe bags are printed in coordinating styles. For hangers: The retro cruise ship style, a blend of wood and metal, cultivates a sober and distinguished sophistication.