WOMENSWEAR 27.02.2017 / Best - The buyers' choices
In this simple and delightful summer 18 season, womenswear buyers go for lightness, preferring lively handles and airy patterns. In decoration, differentiation translates to hand-drawn lines, clearly readable patterns and energetic colourways. Dynamism and a certain kind of spontaneity are in the air.
TOPS AND DRESSES
Delicacy marks the season’s fluid tops and dresses, with choices tending to very feminine, fresh fabrics, enlivened with subtle fantasy. A silky spirit is liked when combined with viscose and cotton for more everyday wear.
Full of visual punch, for invigorating plains and more boldly contrasted patterns.
Airy fabrics for tops were favourites, a direct result of the urge for lightness prevailing in womenswear. With semi-transparency in silkies and feminine knits, enlarged openworking in lace and embroidery, and lightened grounds as base fabrics for motifs.
Metallic aspects did well in all women’s sectors. Especially for knit, silky and embroidered tops, with metallic effects softened by washings giving a matt finish, and lighter colourways.
Buyers solved the problem of how to be low-key but different by choosing not-quite-uniform plains, and fabrics full of little surface irregularities. Subtly slubbed yarns, mini seersuckers and finely pleated or wrinkled effects add to the originality.
JACKETS AND ENSEMBLES
New combos are coming to light. For jackets, coats and the like, buyers seek to strike just the right balance between comfort and fantasy, natural and artificial materials, bold and low-key looks. The handle is the deciding factor in choices.
Deep multi-coloured plains featuring a mix of yarns for vibrant colour fantasy.
Linen triumphs, especially in blends, though there’s not much rusticity in the choices. You see very fine slubs in artificial blends, especially with viscose. Smooth and supple lineny macro-weaves, for chic and casual looks.
Plains are even suppler and smoothly suave. Buyers like the feel of fabrics with a powdery fluidity – slightly lustrous and subtly stretch – that fall somewhere between suitings and silkies. Also popular are washed finishings, cellulosic blends and a growing presence of silk and cupro in compositions.
Fantasy hangs by a thread… While plains gained ground in jackets and outerwear, yarns are the focus of attention in fancies. The winning trio: bright yarn-dyeds energising stripes and checks, fancy yarn plays lending a richness to wovens, and irregular yarns imparting a subtle motion to surfaces.
Spring summer 18 is set to be energetic, highly colourful and light. Choices at the show favoured more sophisticated silkies, more refined lace, richer embroidery. Buyers liked updated versions of decoration and embellishment, for a truly modern originality.
Fantasy has to play it straight. Buyers want readability, stylised patterns, more linear lines. They look for straightforward geometry, dots, diamonds and stripes, especially in jacquards and lace. Lace-makers noted a new interest in modern interpretations, and decreased interest in banal flowers.
Visitors went for decoration with lots of lightness, like romantic florals scattered on weightless grounds, in embroidery, lace and cut-yarn jacquards. A clear success for spaced-out all-over patterns. Everywhere, air is slipped in between motifs.
Choices for prints with plant-designs point to a lush and dazzlingly coloured summer. Tropical foliage and exotic flowers send a blast of high-summer through the season. The interest in expressive depictions of nature seeps into knits and jacquard silkies.