MENSWEAR 27.02.2017 / Best - The buyers' choices
City elegance and casual nonchalance: men still want both. And how to strike the right balance runs all through summer 18. Buyers’ choices bring their own view into focus: a combination of authenticity and fantasy, menswear that’s both chic and tech, easy to wear and sophisticated looking.
Colours are bold. Selections went to contrasting colourways, for forthright visuals. Something has to happen in classic stripes and figureds: the subtle irregularities of plant fibres, or light texture waking up more toned-down qualities. Shirtings will play a differentiating role in the men’s silhouette.
Deeper or more purplish blues,vitamin-boosted colours for effervescent combinations with fresh tones.
Linen and linen blends jump to 2nd place in fabric choices, just after cotton and stretch cotton. One of their highest scores ever! Present but discreet, linen is especially appreciated when it subtly infiltrates end-on-ends, or when it livens up a simple stripe
The desire for refinement is at its peak, both in qualities and patterns. This means success for cotton verging on transparency, plain weaves with a crunchy lightness, miniaturized patterns with an extreme precision, microscopic jacquard fancies, or small cut-yarn figureds scattered across featherweight poplins.
Spruce geometry and tie patterns are the most requested patterns. Then come tennis stripes (when they leave a lot of white space). It’s the first time in a decade that stripes outperformed checks. These last nevertheless retain a good position in the choices, especially when executed in fresh colourways.
JACKETS AND SUITS
Deceptively simple, men’s tailoring is subtly evolving. Buyers are choosing lighter, more mobile, livelier fabrics. The change is taking place deep down, in invisible technologies; stretch worked into the heart of fabrics; and a search for eco-friendly materials. Originality is now expressed as much in refined visuals as in elaborate handles.
Essential, reassuring tones, lighter colours for jackets and coats, and a desire for sophisticated or intensified naturals.
A new airiness in menswear. A strong showing for open structures, basketwovens and wool gauzes, and suitings lightened to the max by transparency. Selected fabrics look familiar, but they’ve been transformed by springier, less rigid weights and structures, heralding fuller cuts and freer styles.
Linen is liked for its vegetal identity, not for its raw references. Buyers like it refined and smooth, right up to subtly lustrous aspects made more luxurious through skilful blends of wool and linen, of naturals and artificials. As a result, a tactile vegetal feel and in particular dry handles had excellent scores.
Something’s got to move, both in silhouettes and on fabric surfaces. Hence the success of weave-plays with micro textures, gently undulating suitings, plain or checked men’s seersuckers, and very supple piqué interpretations for knit or woven jackets. Everything that evokes motion appeals to buyers.
Not so simple
Hidden riches. What caught the eye of buyers in fabrics with a low-key look or a hint of authenticity: filigree patterns, discreet functionality, and benevolent materials. They like easy-care suitings, water-repellent gabardines, and deceptively traditional stripes and check, all quite often stretch.