BEST Spring Summer 18 / Highlights 22.02.2017 / Best - The buyers' choices
The very first selections, favourites and preferences: The Best survey conducted at Première Vision Fabrics gathers, analyses and presents the earliest reactions of international fabric buyers in each sector and across all markets. Top colours and leading fabric directions: this is the starting line for fashion for spring summer 18.
Simple and straightforward fashion – that’s the first message telegraphed by buyers for spring summer 18. Their choices? Fabrics that are easy to wear and carefree, with direct and recognizable visuals; reassuring, supple but softened handles; and punched-up, delectable fantasy. There’s nothing sweet or sentimental about this season. Simplicity doesn’t mean uniformity! Energy, lightness and environmental awareness – that’s the winning trio.
Fresh, absolutely. Natural too, but… not really. You need a hint of something artificial underneath those vegetal-fibre qualities. In any case, that’s what turns up in the buyers’ choices. Their favourite linens are slightly mixed with viscose. Cottons are blended with cupros and Lyocell, or tend to bi-stretch versions. In short, a synthetic handle works its charm for spring summer 18. And if you can see it too, so much the better.
Plain, but not uniform. Neutral surfaces aren’t hitting it this season. The results from the Best survey point up a demand for lively materials. Fantasy adopts a discreet texture. Shirtings softly wave and shiver. This tactile richness is sought everywhere, in seersucker suitings, in knit or woven piqué interpretations, in finely cloqué jacquards, in light wrinklings for technical fabrics and in fine pleats for lace and prints.
Up for air!
Always lighter. This is the ringing call of the buyers at Première Vision fabrics. A lightness verging on transparency in all markets. Especially liked are tracing-paper effects for technical fabrics, cottony voiles, silky filters in plains or cut-yarns in jacquards. Lightened wovens in suits and more open structures in fancy wovens are liked, for both womenswear and menswear. Air is just as demanded in fantasy, laying the ground for plays on openwork knits, net lace and enlarged eyelet embroidery.
In the tropics
A vision of tropical forests and profuse vegetation, a mad frenzy for greenery has swept visitors. In terms of decoration, there’s foliage in the foreground, occasionally populated with birds, mostly exotic flowers, fleshy and tasty fruits. It’s a new lush landscape pulling in fashion designers for spring summer 18, as much in pared-down graphic versions as in more spontaneous interpretations in prints, embroidery, jacquard and even lace.
Feel first before deciding… This time, buyers are using their fingers to verify that fabrics hit that sweet spot between fluidity and casual nonchalance. Hands are liked flexible, round and with a certain slightly bouncy density. So selections favour cupro blends, high-twist wools, crepes that are lively but always soft on the surface. Because suppleness has to be teamed with a suave smoothness. This means guaranteed success for washings in jeanswear to silkies. What’s big right now? A fine, talc-like feeling.
Mattness has been sweeping the top spots in the choices for several seasons. Now, all the talk is turning to shine. What kind of shine? Washed and metallic, barely shimmering. Or chintz. But not a lot of lacquerings. In knits and silks, discreetly coloured sparkle is often pink-hued. Even in menswear, both in suitings and shirtings, soft reflections gain ground.