Best Womenswear 28.09.2016 / Best - The buyers' choices
Buyers’ choices point to an opulent but never haughty winter 17-18. Selections tend to exaggerated dimensions, and visibly fancy structures. In the background, jacquards continue their rise, appealing in both their ornamental and more sober versions, such as deceptively-uniform figured plains.
Like a beam of light in a sea of fantasy, metallic lustre emerges in all selections: from coat-weights to tops, metallo-plastic yarns dominate especially in silk, with a best-ever score. Nothing flashy, though. Tempered coppery and bronze accents caught the eye in knits and silkies. Coppery or gold metallic yarns subtly infiltrate wools. These soft metallic versions are confirmed in lace, embroidery and jacquards.
TOPS AND DRESSES
Buyers want fluidity with weight, and suppleness that’s smooth. That’s a recipe for success for runny and weighty ultra-feminine knits, and silky satins in preferably stretch or washed versions.
For the first time, crepes assert themselves in a winter season. Softened, less dry and thus less cold versions had the most appeal. Highly sought-after for dresses, crepes as print grounds scored especially well.
The search for cosy fabrics – common to all markets this winter – certainly explains the warm knit and light-but-cosy silk selections. But velvets took top honours, with a sharp uptake in requests for panne valvets, in both silkies and knits.
Selections went to outwardly classic patterns that, on second look, aren’t so standard! Tie motifs move thanks to fluid grounds, houndstooths and fancy wovens are given a new spin, thanks to their structures and the use of fancy yarns.
It’s foliage over flowers according to the Best survey. Even though there’s still some interest in romantic, still-life romantic bouquets. This trend is confirmed in lace, where the preferred motifs focus more on leaves.
Bold first choices tended to gigantesque motifs, repeat-less jacquards, embroideries or prints to engineer, and patterns so big they verge on abstraction. An urge for extremes is emerging…
JACKETS AND ENSEMBLES
Wool choices herald women’s coats that are both warm and light. After a season of mohairs and other hairy fabrics, macro-bouclés are the new fleece-of-choice. Bouclette yarns are also liked when inserted in stripes and checks.
The feminine universe, so rich in fantasy, takes an interest in a more interiorised, restrained opulence. With compact knits and weaves; very dense diagonals; fine, quite compressed felts; and slimmer bondings.
There’s a real enthusiasm for things macro, very big, very visible and outsized.
Selections included wovens that look viewed through a magnifying glass, yarns with excessively coarse counts, and above all boldly enlarged windowpane checks and fantasy. Coats just might be very graphic next winter.