THE GLOBAL EVENT FOR FASHION PROFESSIONALS | 7-9 February 2017
THE GLOBAL EVENT FOR FASHION PROFESSIONALS | 7-9 February 2017

Outer & Over

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Linings

Linings

Linings accentuate sensory aspects. Ultra-cosy, with fleecy knits for updated shearlings or ultra-soft and supple, in Cupro blends, for petal-light handles.

Voir la fiche exposant

Blousons, Pants and Casual Dresses

Blousons, Pants and Casual Dresses

Welcoming warmth: brushed cottons and wool blends, supple flannels and suiting visuals, in knits and wovens. Cosy denims, in wool blends or with snuggly backs. Patterns in the shadows and clean blurries free of rusticity.
Velvets and velveties: extreme corduroys, either almost smooth baby cords or fat ribs, skilfully enriched with viscose or cashmere. Moleskins with suede handles. Fine and smooth emerisings.
Supple heaviness: cottons and denims with a full thickness, with marked weaves for an illusion of weight and a marshmallow suppleness. The fluidity of Cupro and Lyocell with more weight and body for casual and chic jackets, pants or dresses. In knits and wovens.
Everyday fantasy:pant-weight, ultra-decorative stretch jacquards, casual and denim dobbies and mini figureds.
Omni-stretch: mandatory comfort for pant-weight cottons. For men's or women's, city or casual wear. Soft elasticity or power stretch.

Voir la fiche exposant

Coats

Coats

Super-size: XXL yarns or patterns. Oversize, engineered checks and herringbones. Very thick puffy yarns trace out weaves in relief, without weight. Ribbon yarns in tweeds.
Hyper decoration: highly colourful graphic woollens, tri-toned jacquards, geometric fake furs, floral tapestries, printed wools and a home-furnishings spirit Embroidery on wool.
Extra-soft & light: fantasy quiltings and puffiness, supple shearlings, super airy brushed fabrics and mohairs, cosy torn-outs. Blurry pronounced textures, bold and diffuse colourways in knits and wovens.
Outer comfort:bi-stretch double weaves, broadcloth with an elastic curviness, coat knits imitating wovens or round compact knits.
Neat tech:elegant polyamide blends, water-repellent cottons, refined bondings and scubas, clean waxed textiles.

Voir la fiche exposant

City Suits / Jackets

City Suits / Jackets

Impeccable: neat diagonals in stretch cotton or wool, ultra-even surfaces and weaves, for sharp and comfortable lines. Knit/woven and sport/chic wool bondings. Non-rustic stippling: mini specklings, more spaced out tweedies and micro-knops, fine jaspés on jacket and pant weights.
Resolute patterns: from wide tennis stripes with hesitant lines, to bold stick stripes or muted club and university stripes. Surprising backs, doubly decorative reversibles.
Puffy lightness: fine flannels and combed wools with vaporous handles. Contrasts between ultra-strict and foamy handles. Ultra-chic nonchalance.
Precious wools: subtly scintillating accents, points of light, figured suitings in matt/shiny tone-on tone, perfect lustre.

Voir la fiche exposant

MENSWEAR

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The Best survey reveals a new masculine elegance. Buyer’s choices break with the rigid codes of classic tailored works, without out-rightly championing anything too casual. The men’s universe for winter 17-18 is infused with suppleness, a leitmotif foreshadowing new volumes. Earliest selections point to less-rigid menswear in quest of a distinctive and subtle fantasy, a truly chic allure often featuring a broken suit.

SHIRTING

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Code breakers

The simply classic shirt loses ground in favour of printed motifs and fantasy weaves. Choices for chic mercerized cottons go to the offbeat, with enlarged checks. Knits are even envisioned for shirts.

Very velvety

One buyer out of five talked about velvetiness. This record score is mainly concentrated in 100% cottons, emerised or brushed. But the demand also extends to wool-cotton blends. The desire for a shirt with a caressing feel leads choices towards pinwale corduroys.

 
Not so plain

Yet again this season, buyers liked a certain ambiguity between a plain and a pattern – as in micro-jacquards, subtle plays between end-on-ends and figureds, monochrome or two-tone fancy weaves, and woven or printed micro-patterns.

 

Hanging by a thread

Breaking news this season: designers were attracted to visuals enriched with fancy yarns. Engineered yarns trace out stripes and checks, throwns and jaspés
give a new vibration to patterns. Audacious!

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COATS, JACKETS AND SUITS

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Wrap up in warmth

By favouring airy, blown up suitings and deceptively heavy woollens, buyers herald fuller structured volumes for winter 17-18, with rounder coats and enveloping jackets.

 

Absolutely neat

A unanimous vote for plains in menswear, as long as they have something distinctive. Perfectly regular plains are preferred full, dense and supple, compact and flexible. Monochrome plains have to feature well-marked diagonals.

 

Subtly rich sobriety

More than half of buyers preferred a confidential chic. Close up, something has to be going on: dark checks feature muffled vibrations, Prince of Wales patterns melt into colour depths, suiting jacquards are monochrome.

 

High contrast

Very pale and very dark: buyers want stark contrast. This visual boldness is confirmed in the choice of new takes on houndstooths and opticals. And above all, clearly visible stripes and enlarged tennis or banker stripes are emerging in suitings this season.

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WOMENSWEAR

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Buyers’ choices point to an opulent but never haughty winter 17-18. Selections tend to exaggerated dimensions, and visibly fancy structures. In the background, jacquards continue their rise, appealing in both their ornamental and more sober versions, such as deceptively-uniform figured plains.

Metal time

Like a beam of light in a sea of fantasy, metallic lustre emerges in all selections: from coat-weights to tops, metallo-plastic yarns dominate especially in silk, with a best-ever score. Nothing flashy, though. Tempered coppery and bronze accents caught the eye in knits and silkies. Coppery or gold metallic yarns subtly infiltrate wools. These soft metallic versions are confirmed in lace, embroidery and jacquards.


TOPS AND DRESSES

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Smooth drape

Buyers want fluidity with weight, and suppleness that’s smooth. That’s a recipe for success for runny and weighty ultra-feminine knits, and silky satins in preferably stretch or washed versions.

 

Winter crepes

For the first time, crepes assert themselves in a winter season. Softened, less dry and thus less cold versions had the most appeal. Highly sought-after for dresses, crepes as print grounds scored especially well.

 

 Finely velvety

The search for cosy fabrics – common to all markets this winter – certainly explains the warm knit and light-but-cosy silk selections. But velvets took top honours, with a sharp uptake in requests for panne valvets, in both silkies and knits.

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DECORATION

Graphic offshoots

Selections went to outwardly classic patterns that, on second look, aren’t so standard! Tie motifs move thanks to fluid grounds, houndstooths and fancy wovens are given a new spin, thanks to their structures and the use of fancy yarns.

 

Ornamental vegetation

It’s foliage over flowers according to the Best survey. Even though there’s still some interest in romantic, still-life romantic bouquets. This trend is confirmed in lace, where the preferred motifs focus more on leaves.

 

Decorative grandeur

Bold first choices tended to gigantesque motifs, repeat-less jacquards, embroideries or prints to engineer, and patterns so big they verge on abstraction. An urge for extremes is emerging…

 

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JACKETS AND ENSEMBLES

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Generously bouclé

Wool choices herald women’s coats that are both warm and light. After a season of mohairs and other hairy fabrics, macro-bouclés are the new fleece-of-choice. Bouclette yarns are also liked when inserted in stripes and checks.

New compacts

The feminine universe, so rich in fantasy, takes an interest in a more interiorised, restrained opulence. With compact knits and weaves; very dense diagonals; fine, quite compressed felts; and slimmer bondings.

 
Macro-mania

There’s a real enthusiasm for things macro, very big, very visible and outsized.
Selections included wovens that look viewed through a magnifying glass, yarns with excessively coarse counts, and above all boldly enlarged windowpane checks and fantasy. Coats just might be very graphic next winter.

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Season’s Motifs & Decorative Designs

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Discover the buyers’ favourite patterns and prints for autumn winter 1718 at Première Vision Designs at the September 2016 Paris show.

An autumn winter season marked by imagination and experimentation!

A true desire for personalised patterns underlines the importance of the line: sensitive and narrative, decoration re-draws reality in a variety of graphic styles and a wealth of unique expression. Another differentiation option: placed or engineered patterns, which are becoming increasingly important.

A craving for narratives invites animals, birds, and small figuratives to play with colour! Joyful and shimmering colorizations are mostly liked in multi-coloured versions, but leave more and more room for tri-colour variations.

Flowers remain quite popular. Whether precisely inset or worked as small, scattered all-overs, botanical or romantic, flowers assert and express themselves in their most graceful interpretations.

Geometrics are precise and clear, evoking colour-wovens, with stripes and checks gleefully stepping into printed decorations.

Patterns strive for a more confidential feel, for subtlety detectable only on second glance.

ENRICHED FOLKLORE

ENRICHED FOLKLORE

Ornamental designs are especially liked when reinterpreted: influenced by a distant East, painted with a controlled irregularity, and sometimes given a new spin through enlarged versions. Batik is preferred in not-too-literal versions, and Indienne plays on mimicry to steer clear of archetypes.

Voir la fiche exposant

BREEZY NARRATIVES

BREEZY NARRATIVES

Drawn with precision and in joyful colours, funny animals with the look of characters won over buyers. Symbolic figuratives wander through leaves and everyday objects with panache, while shrubs and mountains in placed motifs invite freedom of expression and are traced out with verve and energy.

Voir la fiche exposant

SINGULAR FLOWERS

SINGULAR FLOWERS

Floral themes continue their advance in a plurality of graphic styles. Bouquets and petals have precise, flattened, very-drawn outlines, and botanicals feature acid accents. With their dark tones on obscure grounds, winter flowers are preferred romantic. They are also appealingly neat, in mini floret all-overs.

Voir la fiche exposant

GEOMETRIC OBSESSIONS

GEOMETRIC OBSESSIONS

Choices turn to geometry when it is quite small and rigorous, in almost optically interlinked designs, for visual effects that nearly demand to be viewed under a microscope. Checks, herringbones and stripes, transposed for prints, also caught the eye.

Voir la fiche exposant

Best Autumn/Winter 17/18

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3 days of surveys at Première Vision Fabrics

296 weavers interviewed, in 12 sectors

257 samplings collected

Quantitative and qualitative data

A complete analysis of buyers’ choices

Day-by-day analysis in The Daily News

Buyers want something cosy, and comfort that makes no style concessions. Autumn-winter 1718 is primed for fantasy and elegance. It’s time for lightness and warm suppleness… along with quality technology prized more for its actual functions than look.

Dense suppleness

Suppleness is high on everyone’s list. This consensus is written into a broader story of elegance, moving away from a casual nonchalance, and evident in both women’s and menswear. Full, dense, alive and pliant handles met with success: draping, enveloping, free of any rigidity, and above all always elegant. These choices open up a whole new field of chic contemporary looks combining presence and agility. As a result, diagonals are the highest they’ve been in the surveys for 10 years. Choices also indicate a return to blends with viscose and Lyocell.


Offbeat patterns

Fantasy takes off: choices went to patterns that turned their backs on standard archetypes. The houndstooths and Prince of Wales selected were offbeat and distorted, with new scales and colourways to give them a new twist. Check favourites – enlarged to the max in jacket and coat weights – stepped away from traditional looks. Strange, darkly romantic flowers were among the favourites in prints, and out-scale motifs were liked in jacquards and lace. For outdoors, camouflage patterns tended to precious or figured versions, in unusual colourways.


Frank regularity

Buyers are on a hunt for perfection this season. They want absolute plains, really regular structures, visibly neat constructions, totally smooth surfaces. The desired look is neat and chic, in suitings as well as in technical synthetics, and above all in jacket- and pant-weight cottons. Even menswear heads off in this new direction: plains overtake blurries and chinés.


Weightless warmth

It’s winter: buyers can’t escape a need for comfort. The game-changer this season: wool warmed up with a light hand. The protective performants buyers selected are cosy, fluffy and soft. This wave of warmth surges through fancies and decorative grounds too, putting velvets front and centre: embroidered, printed, jacquards, and yarn-dyed velvets.


Multi-colour darks

In a real surprise for a winter season, multi-colour aspects scored very well, in both the men’s and women’s markets. Buyers like dark and multicolour fabrics, far removed from gaily-coloured looks. They enjoyed this different way of working tone-on-tones, and the secret richness brought by colour depth.


A definite yes to recycled fibres

Fewer declarations and good intentions this season, but instead a concrete turn towards ecological and responsible production. The demand for fabrics made from recycled fibres increased significantly in all sectors. These textiles are even starting to seduce the fancy women’s market. The most committed buyers were those in active sports and jeanswear.

Yarns make the difference

This season, a fabric’s seductive appeal derived from the creativity of its yarns. The surprising handles that appealed to buyers derived from the twist and density of the fabric’s yarns. The singular plays on weaves that caught the eye of show visitors relied on a subtle use of fancy yarns inserted in stripes, checks, jacquards and embroideries.

 

Sport & Outdoor

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No more running after citywear here. Buyers have dropped any thought of mimicking either tailoring or casualwear…They are doubling down on a real meeting of natural and synthetic fibres that optimizes functional products. And they are re-focusing on technological features, the notion of fundamental comfort. This search for performance combines with eco-responsible approaches, with an 8-fold increase in requests for recycled polyesters.

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Delicate protection

Constriction-free protection is the goal this winter 1718. All the light performant textiles were chosen: featherweight waterproofs and wind-stops, slimmer bondings, stretch and weightless multilayers. Suppleness had its highest score in 10 years, confirming that priority is given to fabrics that know how to accompany the body, even in dense versions, with shape-memory, malleable and fuller textiles.

Huggably soft

This winter, buyers are going for technical fabrics that are cosy, like plush toys for children. Another story focused on comfort! Fans of polyesters with finely sueded surfaces, buyers went beyond mere surface softness, diving into the softness of double-faces with thermal backs, soft fleeces, sleek furs, and woolly interiors.

Ultra-smooth surfaces

Plains score the highest they ever have, relegating semi-plains and crepons to the back shelf. The requests were unanimous: no irregularity. Smoothness, evenness, and simple structures – everything that makes the glory of plain weaves and twills. Added-value is sought in density and the quality of materials.

Neo camouflage

There’s nothing military about the selections, even though the selected motifs are directly inspired by lattices. Preferred camouflage patterns move decisively away from uniforms, and are now reflecting, subtly metallic, stylised like pixels, elaborated in jacquards and featuring colourings decidedly not inspired by nature.

 

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Casualwear

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Winter 1718 champions the very DNA of casualwear. Buyers’ requests centre on relaxed looks that have stopped trying to move closer to tailoring. A sea change! Comfortable and comforting, versatile and easy to wear, the look-good/feel-good fabrics this season all have a touch of fantasy…a touch of originality is expected.

TOPS & SHIRTS

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Sly checks

Off-kilter authentics find favour. Selected checks are all slightly shifted: not quite plaids, not quite ginghams, not quite windowpanes. Colourways are offbeat too, and fancy yarns are game-changers.

 

Cosy tops

Even more than in other sectors, casual tops have to be warm and enveloping. Ultra brushed and supple cottons; truly velvety knits and creamy interlocks.

 

 

Another take on fleece

Sweats, the key item in the relaxed wardrobe, feature fancier knits: fleeces with exaggeratedly bouclé interiors, double jerseys with a woolly aspect, or stitch-plays borrowed from sweaters.

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JACKETS, BLOUSONS, PANTS

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Boosted velvets

A wave of velveties emerged last winter, and this season it focuses on fancy corduroys. Buyers look for very visible ribs and printed or figured velvets that are resolutely supple and light.

 

Seductive regularity

Perfection and neatness are expectations shared by all the different markets, but take on an unexpected dimension in premium relax. Designers opted for very well drawn diagonals, and perfectly structured plains.

 

Benevolent suppleness

The comfort demanded of outer-layer pieces favour suppleness combined with brushed or emerised finishings. A cosy flexibility, especially seen in pant weights, where stretch is a must! In denim, buyers noted fabrics with a knit/woven ambiguity.

 

Fluidity over all

The casualwear market clearly prefers fluidity to firmness. This is rendered even more evident by the increase in compositions incorporating Lyocell or viscose. A direction opening the door to decidedly more feminine casualwear.

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THE RESULTS OF THE 1ST PREMIÈRE VISION BAROMETER OF THE ECONOMY OF CREATIVE INDUSTRIES

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The Première Vision Barometer was elaborated from data derived from the responses to the economic survey we sent out to exhibiting weavers and tanners. The positioning of the show in its market, as well as the selection process put in place, allows us to consider that the Première Vision Paris exhibitors, as a whole, constitute a relevant international representation of the creative materials offer for the valueadded fashion industry. For the publication of these first results of the Barometer, only sectors representing an ensemble of coherent activity sectors – textile and leather – took part in the survey.

The Première Vision Barometer is thus an indicator of the business activity of all the companies taking part in the show, and by extension of the activity of the international creative fashion industry. It comprises two indexes, the PREMIÈRE VISION TEXTILE INDEX for the textile industry, and the PREMIÈRE VISION LEATHER INDEX for the leather industry. These indexes are expressed in terms of changes in the percentages of production volumes. This allows exhibitors to compare their own business situation to that of their sector. In the results outlined below, the Première Vision Barometer is compared with a global index of textile production and leather products, the UNIDO index, which is published by the United Nations. This makes it possible to compare the activity of the creative materials sector to the global production of textiles and leather.

 

RESULTS AND ANALYSIS OF THE PREMIÈRE VISION INDEX: 4 KEY POINTS

1/ The activity of the weavers and tanners grew in volume in 2015. A positive data point, knowing that in 2015 clothing consumption declined in almost all European countries, was stable in the U.S., and in difficulty in the BRICS.
2/ The creative materials market is more dynamic than the world market. A positive result here too, which should reassure companies who chose this positioning.
3/ In Europe, there has been a upward re-segmentation of weavers’ collections, which allows them to maintain turnover despite declining volumes.
4/ The dynamics of the luxury sector, while slowed for the past several seasons, is bolstering the tanners’ business activity.

 

Read the full results >

 

TECH FOCUS

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Outdoor

Outdoor


Augmented cottons: a natural that stands up to natural elements! Waterproof coatings or waxings, natural/synthetic bondings, breathable blends, waterproof and windproof membranes.
Cosy inside: 3-layer polar-bonded synthetic stretch, performant teddy-bear fleecy backs, thermal and fast-dry tee-shirt knits.
Authentic hybrids: carded wools or membraned boiled wools.
Anti-UV: for tee-shirt knits and shirts.

Voir la fiche exposant

Lifestyle

Lifestyle


Inflated/botoxed: puffer mania, shock-resistant roundness, waterproof, breathable and/or wind-proof quilted fantasy. Anti-duvet fineness, pre-compartmentalized double-faces for injecting feathers.
Leather and skin aspects: a lamb-like fineness and suppleness, to pad or not, enhanced with water- and wind-proof performance.
Waterproof wools: combed suitings, flannel visuals, waterproof/breathable membranes and coatings, light and compactable weights.
Elegant neatness: impeccably waterproof synthetic blends, lustrous or satiny aspects, for the trench that does it all.
Cosmic metals: extreme shine, between satellite and disco ball.

Voir la fiche exposant

athleisure / fitness

athleisure / fitness


Power-stretch knits: ever finer and ever more elastic combined with stretch membranes to add-up performance features.
Bi- or tri-layer fineness: ultra-performant lightness for tops and bottoms. Neat and matt surfaces, discreet, suiting-style prints.
Camouflaged camouflage: barely discernible patterns that emerge and disappear in matt/shine, mists of pixels, subtle clouds and shadows.
Fancy reflectives: over-printed or woven into weaves, ever lighter and sportier, in a playful and aesthetic functional note.

Voir la fiche exposant

TOP & SHIRT

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Shirtings

Shirtings

A light air of wool: cotton flannels, warm handles with micro sandings and fine brushings. Plays on yarns and chiné grounds, dispersed micro-knops. Deceptively thick -looking, cosy checks in warm soft colourways. Winter ginghams, blanket and slipper-plaids.
Complex semi-plains: patterns in the shadow, in blended darks, plays on weaves combined with plays on chiné or thrown yarns, puzzle-style geometric figures. Caning effects, and textured weaves to perturb the reading of micro yarn-dyeds.
Room for emptiness: hollowed-out stripes and checks, scattered stipplings, more spaced-out micro-dobbies.

Voir la fiche exposant

Decoration / Pattern

Decoration / Pattern

Outsize motifs and increasingly more elaborate bases.
Unique layers: more and more interactions between grounds and patterns. Light woollens, velours, jacquards and even lace. Blends of techniques, tools, genres and periods, from the precise to the barely traced.
Winter gardens: florals and bouquets blooming on dark grounds, engineered in strange still-lifes, or on graduated bases, bizarre vegetation, a poisonous dazzle in the darkness.
Enlarged: giant patterns, out-of-frame geometrics and herringbones, XXL paisleys.
Early (XXth) century: from William Morris to Art Deco, Bloomsbury to the Roaring Twenties, non-conformist colourways and dimensions.

Voir la fiche exposant

BLOUSES / DRESSES

BLOUSES / DRESSES

Fleshy fluidity: knits and wovens with warm or velvety handles, with or without wool. Epidermal Cupro and Lyocell blends, enrobing gummy sensations, carefully dosed elasticity. Lustrous silkies, satiny fluids, plain or printed panné velvets.
Colour shine: metalloplastics and lamés in dark colourways, without exaggerated shine. Deliberately gleaming velour and panné knits for very glamorous homewear.
Layered fantasy: over-printed joyful laces, wool embroidery for everyday.

Voir la fiche exposant

Knit tee-shirts and tops

Knit tee-shirts and tops

Blocked knit: compact and light, mercerised cottons and refined felted wool, to structure tee-shirts like dresses or shirts.
Skin-touch softness:natural/artificial blends, almost weightless yet elastic. Velour.
Warm transparency: woolly voiles and fine ribs. Synthetic/wool jacquards and burnt-outs, transparencies made opaque with brushings and plays on hairy yarns.

Voir la fiche exposant

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