Round Table: The keypoints to create a company in the world  of fashion accessories


On Thursday 14 September 2016, Première vision leather, in partnership with ADC – au-delà du Cuir invited young labels, finance specialists and representatives from the leather industry to an event discussing the reality of entrepreneurship in this sector and the opportunities that are available. It provided an occasion to highlight success stories and the wide range of institutional and professional support available to fledgling businesses.


  • Sophie Hivert, Delegate General of the Fédération Française de la Tannerie Mégisserie
  • Delphine Le Mintier-Jonglez, Director of Investments of the BPI in charge of the Fashion and Finance Fund
  • Louis Epaulard, Founder of the leathergoods brand LEON FLAM
  • Nathalie Elharrar, Founder and Designer of the shoe brand JOUR FÉRIÉ
  • Xavier Chantepy, Coach at  Au-delà du Cuir


  • Claude-Eric Paquin, President of ADC : Au-delà du Cuir and the Fédération Française de la Chaussure


Headline: Leather sector start-ups: plenty of support available

 “France is renowned for its creativity and its design, but the dynamism of its young business creation sector, particularly in the leather industry,  is less well-known,” said Claude-Eric Paquin, President of ADC Au-delà du Cuir and the French Footwear Federation, in his opening remarks.

They have taken on the business creation challenge

Proof of this dynamism is the young footwear label Jour Férié Paris, currently supported by the ADC incubator. The company’s founder, Nathalie Elharra, described the combination of discernment and perseverance that were required to launch the business. “As an employee, I worked in all the stages of luxury footwear and leather goods production. I wanted to create a brand with its own DNA so that I could be responsible for the entire chain.” After launching the Larare label, a new concept of easy-to-wear shoes made using luxury techniques started to take shape. With two partners, she created the company that would operate in this niche. “Our ambition wasn’t to become a huge company but a successful business that stayed loyal to its own conception,” she explained.

Louis Epaulard, creator of the Léon Flam label provided the example of a successful industrialisation process. “I spent four years constantly looking for suppliers, before deciding that it would be better to have more control over my sourcing and my stocks,” he explained. “This led to the project of creating a manufacturing workshop in central France. The idea was to organise our own production runs and increase our product expertise.” The benefits of this approach? “It is us, rather than the manufacturer, who knows the product well,” he said, “which allows us to increase our volumes and our margins. 

Know the material: An accessible prerequisite

“Knowing about leather and the professions involved in producing it is an important prerequisite for operating as a business, and we are making this information more and more accessible,” emphasised Sophie Hivert, Chief Representative of the French Federation of Tanners. She went on to give details of all the training tools developed by CTC around leather and its transformation, one of which is the leather library located within the Federation’s head office in Paris. It presents a total of 300 samples from all French tanneries. Creators are also encouraged to present their projects to the 30 French tanneries that exhibit at the Première Vision Leather show. Sophie Hivert emphasised that “solutions exist when looking for the small volumes that are so important to creators: in the showrooms of tanners, and with some manufacturers that have the capacity to produce in small quantities.” Young people were also reminded that there were very interesting opportunities available from taking over existing tanneries.

The leather sector is pulling out all the stops for the next generation

The professional federations have developed a number of tools to support and stimulate new business projects. Xavier Chantepy, business coach, gave details about the ADC (Au-delà du Cuir) incubator. Drawing on government support, this programme assists 20 labels over a period of three years. Eight or nine new candidates are selected each year. What are the criteria? “A balance between the creative component of the project and its entrepreneurial dimension,” explained Xavier Chantepy. Incorporating a series of monthly meetings, the incubator programme provides support for the strategy, finances and steering of the company. It also includes specific training courses in style and artistic direction. On the commercial side, ADC helps to fund participation in trade shows and offers the use of its permanent showroom in Paris. Other precious support: a guarantee fund has been created so that entrepreneurs do not have to personally secure any loans they take out to meet their working capital requirements.

A bonus for innovative and profitable business models 

In their search for funding, companies are also encouraged to take a look at the instruments BPI France has been managing since 2013.

 “Two tools are particularly well adapted”, explained Delphine Le Mintier-Jonglez, investment director at BPI France in charge of the Mode et Finance (Fashion & Finance) fund: One is the ‘savoir faire d’excellence’ fund, which has a capital of 20 million euros. It is used to finance industrial projects and transfers in companies with a turnover in excess of 50 000 euros.  And the Mode & Finance fund, which is specialised in companies producing personal goods. BPI France takes a minority stakeholding in the company and acts in the long term. “We know that the development cycles in these sectors are much slower than in the technology sector. We also believe that creators should stay at the helm of their companies,” she explained. Innovative business models, such as those drawing on digital technology and those that are profitable from the outset are more likely to obtain a positive response. 

Propose projects with added value and dare to think internationally

The very pragmatic questions asked by the audience at the event covered the commercial margins that could be applied as well as the difficulties in committing with suppliers at the beginning of a collection. Although young companies may have to apply lower margins at the beginning, Claude Eric Paquin warned them that they should ensure that their professional sale price is always 50% higher than their cost price. Opening test sales outlets, using direct sales, pop-up boutiques and collective commercial operations in conjunction with other labels were some of the commercial options that can be combined to boost sales. Although, as Claude-Eric Paquin noted, “it is difficult to design a business project of any substance without incorporating international distribution”.



Season products highlights


AW 17/18

Participatory creativity

It is difficult to talk about fashion themes given that the accessories show is primarily and most importantly a place for unbridled creativity and expertise. Pleating feathers, softening stones, enamelling zipper teeth – sometimes it is the technical challenge that sparks the imagination, with a desire for something completely new giving zest to accessories. Other times, it can be comfort, lightness and softness that are inspiring because these discreet qualities have succeeded in making themselves absolutely essential.

And then there is the question of customisation, as the pop-up bar offering this service at the show demonstrated. “A la carte” decorations are back in force, reviving the heroic era of the ‘pins’. Accessories have become free radicals: exhibitors offer, buyers accept and the final customer … reworks things to their own taste, according to the mood and the colour of the moment. This is what we could call “participatory creativity”.


Cross-cutting trends

 Spring in winter: There will be contented flowers, the chattering of insects, colours full of freshness, lacquered plastics that make one think of spring showers rather than frosts – accessories are forecasting a very mild winter.

© Leonardo Frascaroli

The tech touch: These were the reflective laces and cord stoppers in shiny metal for luxury sportswear, zips with an iridescent coating, sports straps and elastics with club stripes for elegant leather goods. It was also the resurgence of neon bringing a refined and energetic touch that peps up the classics, and then the perfect surfaces and the infinitely-repeated patterns that only cutting-edge technology can produce.

© Kolon Glotech

The modernity of wool: Wool is not only visible everywhere, but it also more modern than ever. More designer than rustic, it stands out this season in applications with very clean and precise contours. We use it for sneakers, belts, striped braid, and geometric panels. Neither soft nor foamy, wool is strong, compact, and technical and is chopped with a blade.

© ISG Italian Stylistic Group                                                             © Passamaneria Frassinetti

Black  and white + quartz pink: Among all the colours that were so richly displayed in exhibitors’ collections, there was the constant presence of deep black, a very graphic combination of black and white, and quartz pink to bring a touch of evanescence. Calmly, superbly, luxuriously ultra-simple!

© Bolflex                                                                                           © Creazioni Valli

Trends by product


Adopting normal sizes and classic shapes, buttons make their presence felt through their decorations, texture and materials. Miniature landscapes, genre scenes and etchings, either printed or enamelled, appeared on this small accessory, which also likes to dress up in fabric, notably velvet and even fur.

BEST SELLER: The velvet button embroidered in a bullion knot stitch, from Gaforelli.

The crystal shirt button brings an elaborate detail to the classic preppy sector.

Froggings are very elegant, with diamanté, cabochons and silky threads.

We like the shine of buttons in galalith, and blurred effects that are not seeking to imitate wood, marble or mother of pearl but rather adopting unpredictable shades.

Colourful enamelled effects in thick layers on horn, wood, polyester or other materials are still very popular.

© Zanchi Giovanni

Embroidery, lace and trimmings

Embroidery knows no limits: very high reliefs, geometric designs and modern materials delighted visitors.
Trimmings and macramé were still a sure-fire bet. This season, black and gold made an appearance in the collections, notably in military-inspired braids and frogging.

© Passamaneria Frassinetti

NEW: Felt in varying degrees of stiffness from AT+T

Wool appears in compositions that normally tend to be dominated by silk, viscose and cotton.
Guipure is still present but it has a rival in woollen embroidery on an invisible nylon background.

NEW: Passamaneria Frassinetti presents an embossed braid that imitates passementerie.

Textile Accessories

The stars of the season are velvet, wool and microfibers.

Club stripe braid, bias binding with tie prints, woolly grosgrain Masculine fashion is “be-ribboned” with elaborate details on the lining side.

© Nastritessuti                                                                              © De Bernardi

Velvet is still a big hit for ribbons, whether it is stretch, stiff, or sequined.
Made from microfibers, heat-mouldable faux-suede and faux-leather produce transfers and labels as well as having other uses and are popular for their light weight and soft finishes.
Woven panels: Jacquard scenes, tufted wool, carpet weaves, but also laminations with laser cut-outs are offered as an alternative to leather for bag flaps, for encasing heels, etc.

© Forza Giovane


Flocking is still very popular, riding on the passion for velvet. We find it on heels, buttons, lace, accessories, plastic, karabiners and metal chains.

© Amom

Transfers have become more refined and are the passport to elegant clothing. Tiny crystals from Swarovski, mirror metallics from Hitit Transfert, not to mention the mini studs and hot fix crystals. 

NEW: The different heights of hot fix decorations are no longer an obstacle for Hitit Transfert, which offers compositions combining flat sequins and small studs in relief.

Technical functional items

Sew-on press fasteners are definitely back.

EXCLUSIVE: Kiyohara breaks all the records for fineness and lightness with its ultra-flat press fasteners.

 There is a wide choice of eyelets again for the coming season. Elongated shapes are popular, but reversible eyelets are the most in demand.

© Fixo Group

Square clasps have also made a remarkable comeback in leather goods.

© Accessori Val Vibrata

There was also a lot of demand for snap hooks, which often have very elaborate designs and combine materials.

NEW: Assems presents its “hot melt” thread adapted to the creation of sports shoes, in order to modify the thickness and the stiffness of materials at certain parts of the shoe.

© Assems

NEW: The perfectly circular reflective thread from JRC Reflex which can be used in knitting and embroidery machines.

 In the zip sector, the metal is more elegant than ever with very shiny finishes and fine and large teeth. The contrasting puller, whether in terms of its material or style, can bring an original touch, while tapes can be personalised thanks to digital printing.

© Texxi


Unisex jewellery is increasingly popular and is moody and mysterious in black. Diamanté, stones, beads, silk or metal laces and chains are available in a rubbery black or a shiny black with occasional furtive highlights of petrol or beluga shades.

© Société Choletaise de Fabrication

Insects such as ants, flies, ladybirds, etc., whether diamanté, gilded or dark, form a strange ballet that is part precious and part disturbing.
An Op Art spirit takes over jewellery with cubic beads in coloured plastic or metallic hollow structures made by 3D printing.
We note a passion for metallic balls in different sizes, some of which are available in a hot fix format, from Hitit Transfert. 

NEW: Terracotta, lava or wooden inclusions, giving a new texture to resin beads from Micro.

The success of flat-bottomed stones suggests they will be very present on clothing.

Metal and plastic

For both metal and plastic, the trends oscillate between mirror-like shine and rubbery mattness.
There is strong demand for diamanté studded metal for clasps, buckles and more.

© Mettetal 

Belt buckles made from two materials continue to be popular this year: metal and leather, metal and horn, metal and wood…
The touch of colour is important: whether on a loop, a pin or an eyelet.  Matt metal, rubbery metal…coloured metal.

Very large chains

NEW: The “dipped metal” effect from Britigraf: Medaillons which look just like metal but which are made from a light and supple plastic which is suitable for sewing machines.


Flowers: Plastic, enamel, metal…next winter’s flowers are full of freshness!

© Micro

Macramé panels for bags, or strips for bracelets, necklaces, handles or belts.
Charms in colourful fur customize bags, bonnets and other items…

© Hilton Fur

EXCLUSIVE: Pleated feathers from Galeotipiume


Two options for labels: either very playful or very sober.
The playful version sees them become a real accessory, to be added to everything, full of fun and joyfully blending embroidery, jacquard, printing and injection.

© Rebildesign

BEST: The padded labels from Harmanci.

BEST: The neon touch
The sober version has limited its palette to black, white and quartz pink. Occasionally a touch of neon may appear. The trend is for minimalist markings, tone-on-tone embossing or laser cut-outs.
Bags are ecological: Respectful in organic cotton, indestructible in Tyvek, biodegradable in corn.

OUR FAVOURITE: Soft and chic grosgrain labels from HC Etiketter, like ribbons with a message.

© HC Etiketter

Shoe accessories

Whether they are dressy shoes or sportswear, accessories are everywhere.
Dressy shoes: Shoe jewels shine brightly on tips, heels or bits, in shiny gold, pink gold, iridescent finishes or embellished with diamanté and cabochons. At the same time, studs are still popular.


Thick, straight and transparent heels are at the cutting edge of this trend. Transparent plastic encourages creativity, with effects created by inclusions, engraving, adding colour, etc.
OUR FAVOURITE: Transparent heels like ice cubes from Tachificcio di Molinella.


Elastics for boots are available in herringbone or Prince of Wales jacquard, to better coordinate with suits.

EXCLUSIVE: Elastics from Rifra which can be up to 50 cm wide!

OUR FAVOURITE: Printed trompe-l’oeil elastics (knit, quilting, tweed) From Adornos Clement.


Sneaker eyelets are willingly taking on aged and blackened finishes.
Printed laces are battling it out with weavings like Brazilian bracelets. Coloured plastic tips provide the finishing touch.




Season products report

python LegnotanUNE

AW 17/18

Première Vision Leather’s exhibitors are resilient to the vagaries of fashion and the changing economic climate, and once again demonstrated their dynamism and their creativity in offering ever more solutions for their clients. Although they continue to produce and even improve their sure-fire winners, they are also constantly innovating to find new finishes, new properties and to refine processes in order to achieve more rational and ecological production. Visitors know that by coming to Première  Vision Leather, they are sure to find products that will enhance their collections.


Products and finishes: this season’s hits

The reputation of Première Vision Leather and its exhibitors is firmly established with their loyal and knowledgeable visitors, who come to the show with clear ideas and projects in mind, looking for solutions from the specialists. This prompted Jean-Charles Duchêne from Alric to suggest that “we have to maintain our strengths and our level of quality and reliability, as this is so important to our customers”. However, buyers and stylists do not deny themselves the pleasure of unearthing new tanneries and are happy to be inspired by their latest discoveries.

Dipped lamb, in its most traditional and authentic versions, maintained its popularity with buyers for its silky, soft texture and its rich colour palette, particularly in bright shades. In thin sheets, it is not only limited to glove making and generated a lot of interest from stylists. For the more erudite, the mixed races were essential. Bonded onto a stretch fabric, they acquire properties that caught the eye of shoe makers. With chemical crisping and drumming, they take on a grained appearance that is as attractive as it is astonishing. With its dense and silky wool, merino remains the nec plus ultra in shearling.

  bodin joyeux agneau plongé  
© Bodin Joyeux

Classic and always in fashion, smooth calf with an aniline finish never fails to achieve great and worthy success, particularly in its most noble version, box leather. “It is still a must for luxury leather goods and footwear”, says Gianfilippo Seitesoldi from Conceria Miura.

veau box T du Puy
© Tannerie Du Puy

As marginal as it is original, baby calf caught the attention of the most prestigious brands, particularly in a suede finish and with bright colours.

baby veau velous Alric
© Mégisserie Alric

In terms of goat leather, buyers continue to appreciate suede goat, while its natural grained and cork finishes are also popular.

In the bovine sector, its natural smoothness coupled with a certain suppleness was the winning combination, although this did not limit the success of fashion finishes, notably snake skin patterns created  using a mechanical grain or a digital print. Cow or vachetta nubuck was also very popular with our panel. Lastly, young bull leather marked with a mechanical small grain seems to be truly interesting for the leather goods sector.

Among the exotic skins, crocodile remains at the top of the hierarchy of precious hides. The stands of specialist producers were never empty. It has to be said that they are constantly outdoing each other for inventiveness, giving crocodile leather the most amazing appearances. We even saw it gilded with gold leaf from Cuir de Lagny. But in terms of originality, python is the winner with its laminated or hand-painted fashion finishes.

python Legnotan

© Legnotan


Essential in winter collections, fur did not only express its natural beauty. It also combined with fabrics or blended species using sophisticated techniques and special assemblies. Round and infinitely soft, shaven, shorn fox fur could be the next It-product for fashion victims.


By caution as much as by tradition, classic leather colours remained the most popular. Black of course, and naturals too, from beige to brown via taupe, camel, cognac and chestnut dominate the palette. Blues with navy at the head, in more or less dark shades, but also slate, denim, sky and Klein, are still popular with professionals. Grey has not fallen out of favour either, but there is also a penchant for bright red and claret to enhance skins. Some even dared to adopt bolder colour choices, with orange, purple and pale green. 

Projects and developments

The situation is complicated and it is difficult to plan medium or long term developments,” one exhibitor told us. And yet, tanneries have to constantly innovate and develop their ranges in order to surprise creators and inspire their collections. Two opposing trends stood out in the responses from the panel of tanneries. On the one hand, some want to perfect their classics: “produce a more supple, more transparent, more elegant bovine leather,” one told us; “improve the quality of skins and offer more first-choice articles,” declared another; “offer more aniline finishes, either smooth or with a mechanical grain,” a third told us, discussing the young bull leather they produce. On the other hand, exhibitors emphasised the need to be creative in their approach and want to intensify it further. Using mechanical or digital printing, fashion specialists are adding to their collections. “In light of what is in demand, we have to increase the number of finishes, using transfers in particular,” explained Jérémie Meiler, from Rial 1957. “We are going to create even more fashionable, innovative products such as these snakeskin patchworks or these fur-on-fur embroideries,” is the prediction from Federico Albarello. Functionality is also a development trend for many companies, with waterproof, water-repellent, washable or coated leathers, better able to resist a variety of attacks. And the ancestral art of vegetable tanning continues to develop, with some tanneries seeking to increase production. 

Alric agneau lavable
© Mégisserie Alric


Labels are increasingly asking tanneries to adopt cleaner production techniques. Using less chrome, less chemicals, consuming less energy, with waste processing and recycling. “Our clients come and inspect our factory to see how we produce our items,” José Maria Saz from the Spanish tannery Sarco told us. Some tanneries have opted for vegetable tanning, like Emelda Tannery, which wants to make its tanned skins even softer, thinner and in a wider range of colours. At Sovos Grosjean, the trend is also to use more vegetable tanning to meet demand. “We have experimented with tanning using leaves and tree bark, to be even more environmentally friendly and not encourage the chopping down of trees,” explained Jean-Charles Duchêne from Alric. Others have adopted synthetic tanning, and in this area the Italian tannery Dani, sets the example: since 2013, it has undergone a complete transformation of its production and has been rewarded by certification from Italian, French and German organisations. “We want to be an ecological tannery,” explained Sonia Zordan, the representative at Première Vision Leather. “In 2017 and 2018, we will reduce the use of chemical products even further and reduce our energy consumption.” However, a number of participants in this report told us that although labels make inquiries and compare items, in the end they often revert to chrome-tanned leathers which they consider to be more attractive and to offer better performance.

Outer & Over

image à la 1 o&o



Linings accentuate sensory aspects. Ultra-cosy, with fleecy knits for updated shearlings or ultra-soft and supple, in Cupro blends, for petal-light handles.

Voir la fiche exposant

Blousons, Pants and Casual Dresses

Blousons, Pants and Casual Dresses

Welcoming warmth: brushed cottons and wool blends, supple flannels and suiting visuals, in knits and wovens. Cosy denims, in wool blends or with snuggly backs. Patterns in the shadows and clean blurries free of rusticity.
Velvets and velveties: extreme corduroys, either almost smooth baby cords or fat ribs, skilfully enriched with viscose or cashmere. Moleskins with suede handles. Fine and smooth emerisings.
Supple heaviness: cottons and denims with a full thickness, with marked weaves for an illusion of weight and a marshmallow suppleness. The fluidity of Cupro and Lyocell with more weight and body for casual and chic jackets, pants or dresses. In knits and wovens.
Everyday fantasy:pant-weight, ultra-decorative stretch jacquards, casual and denim dobbies and mini figureds.
Omni-stretch: mandatory comfort for pant-weight cottons. For men's or women's, city or casual wear. Soft elasticity or power stretch.

Voir la fiche exposant



Super-size: XXL yarns or patterns. Oversize, engineered checks and herringbones. Very thick puffy yarns trace out weaves in relief, without weight. Ribbon yarns in tweeds.
Hyper decoration: highly colourful graphic woollens, tri-toned jacquards, geometric fake furs, floral tapestries, printed wools and a home-furnishings spirit Embroidery on wool.
Extra-soft & light: fantasy quiltings and puffiness, supple shearlings, super airy brushed fabrics and mohairs, cosy torn-outs. Blurry pronounced textures, bold and diffuse colourways in knits and wovens.
Outer comfort:bi-stretch double weaves, broadcloth with an elastic curviness, coat knits imitating wovens or round compact knits.
Neat tech:elegant polyamide blends, water-repellent cottons, refined bondings and scubas, clean waxed textiles.

Voir la fiche exposant

City Suits / Jackets

City Suits / Jackets

Impeccable: neat diagonals in stretch cotton or wool, ultra-even surfaces and weaves, for sharp and comfortable lines. Knit/woven and sport/chic wool bondings. Non-rustic stippling: mini specklings, more spaced out tweedies and micro-knops, fine jaspés on jacket and pant weights.
Resolute patterns: from wide tennis stripes with hesitant lines, to bold stick stripes or muted club and university stripes. Surprising backs, doubly decorative reversibles.
Puffy lightness: fine flannels and combed wools with vaporous handles. Contrasts between ultra-strict and foamy handles. Ultra-chic nonchalance.
Precious wools: subtly scintillating accents, points of light, figured suitings in matt/shiny tone-on tone, perfect lustre.

Voir la fiche exposant


image à la 1 menswear

The Best survey reveals a new masculine elegance. Buyer’s choices break with the rigid codes of classic tailored works, without out-rightly championing anything too casual. The men’s universe for winter 17-18 is infused with suppleness, a leitmotif foreshadowing new volumes. Earliest selections point to less-rigid menswear in quest of a distinctive and subtle fantasy, a truly chic allure often featuring a broken suit.


top couleurs-Homme-Shirting-GB

Code breakers

The simply classic shirt loses ground in favour of printed motifs and fantasy weaves. Choices for chic mercerized cottons go to the offbeat, with enlarged checks. Knits are even envisioned for shirts.

Very velvety

One buyer out of five talked about velvetiness. This record score is mainly concentrated in 100% cottons, emerised or brushed. But the demand also extends to wool-cotton blends. The desire for a shirt with a caressing feel leads choices towards pinwale corduroys.

Not so plain

Yet again this season, buyers liked a certain ambiguity between a plain and a pattern – as in micro-jacquards, subtle plays between end-on-ends and figureds, monochrome or two-tone fancy weaves, and woven or printed micro-patterns.


Hanging by a thread

Breaking news this season: designers were attracted to visuals enriched with fancy yarns. Engineered yarns trace out stripes and checks, throwns and jaspés
give a new vibration to patterns. Audacious!






top couleurs-Homme-Jackets-GB

Wrap up in warmth

By favouring airy, blown up suitings and deceptively heavy woollens, buyers herald fuller structured volumes for winter 17-18, with rounder coats and enveloping jackets.


Absolutely neat

A unanimous vote for plains in menswear, as long as they have something distinctive. Perfectly regular plains are preferred full, dense and supple, compact and flexible. Monochrome plains have to feature well-marked diagonals.


Subtly rich sobriety

More than half of buyers preferred a confidential chic. Close up, something has to be going on: dark checks feature muffled vibrations, Prince of Wales patterns melt into colour depths, suiting jacquards are monochrome.


High contrast

Very pale and very dark: buyers want stark contrast. This visual boldness is confirmed in the choice of new takes on houndstooths and opticals. And above all, clearly visible stripes and enlarged tennis or banker stripes are emerging in suitings this season.







image à la 1 womenswear

Buyers’ choices point to an opulent but never haughty winter 17-18. Selections tend to exaggerated dimensions, and visibly fancy structures. In the background, jacquards continue their rise, appealing in both their ornamental and more sober versions, such as deceptively-uniform figured plains.

Metal time

Like a beam of light in a sea of fantasy, metallic lustre emerges in all selections: from coat-weights to tops, metallo-plastic yarns dominate especially in silk, with a best-ever score. Nothing flashy, though. Tempered coppery and bronze accents caught the eye in knits and silkies. Coppery or gold metallic yarns subtly infiltrate wools. These soft metallic versions are confirmed in lace, embroidery and jacquards.


top couleurs-Femme-Tops-GB

Smooth drape

Buyers want fluidity with weight, and suppleness that’s smooth. That’s a recipe for success for runny and weighty ultra-feminine knits, and silky satins in preferably stretch or washed versions.


Winter crepes

For the first time, crepes assert themselves in a winter season. Softened, less dry and thus less cold versions had the most appeal. Highly sought-after for dresses, crepes as print grounds scored especially well.


 Finely velvety

The search for cosy fabrics – common to all markets this winter – certainly explains the warm knit and light-but-cosy silk selections. But velvets took top honours, with a sharp uptake in requests for panne valvets, in both silkies and knits.





Graphic offshoots

Selections went to outwardly classic patterns that, on second look, aren’t so standard! Tie motifs move thanks to fluid grounds, houndstooths and fancy wovens are given a new spin, thanks to their structures and the use of fancy yarns.


Ornamental vegetation

It’s foliage over flowers according to the Best survey. Even though there’s still some interest in romantic, still-life romantic bouquets. This trend is confirmed in lace, where the preferred motifs focus more on leaves.


Decorative grandeur

Bold first choices tended to gigantesque motifs, repeat-less jacquards, embroideries or prints to engineer, and patterns so big they verge on abstraction. An urge for extremes is emerging…







top couleurs-Femme-Jackets-GB

Generously bouclé

Wool choices herald women’s coats that are both warm and light. After a season of mohairs and other hairy fabrics, macro-bouclés are the new fleece-of-choice. Bouclette yarns are also liked when inserted in stripes and checks.

New compacts

The feminine universe, so rich in fantasy, takes an interest in a more interiorised, restrained opulence. With compact knits and weaves; very dense diagonals; fine, quite compressed felts; and slimmer bondings.


There’s a real enthusiasm for things macro, very big, very visible and outsized.
Selections included wovens that look viewed through a magnifying glass, yarns with excessively coarse counts, and above all boldly enlarged windowpane checks and fantasy. Coats just might be very graphic next winter.





Season’s Motifs & Decorative Designs


Discover the buyers’ favourite patterns and prints for autumn winter 1718 at Première Vision Designs at the September 2016 Paris show.

An autumn winter season marked by imagination and experimentation!

A true desire for personalised patterns underlines the importance of the line: sensitive and narrative, decoration re-draws reality in a variety of graphic styles and a wealth of unique expression. Another differentiation option: placed or engineered patterns, which are becoming increasingly important.

A craving for narratives invites animals, birds, and small figuratives to play with colour! Joyful and shimmering colorizations are mostly liked in multi-coloured versions, but leave more and more room for tri-colour variations.

Flowers remain quite popular. Whether precisely inset or worked as small, scattered all-overs, botanical or romantic, flowers assert and express themselves in their most graceful interpretations.

Geometrics are precise and clear, evoking colour-wovens, with stripes and checks gleefully stepping into printed decorations.

Patterns strive for a more confidential feel, for subtlety detectable only on second glance.



Ornamental designs are especially liked when reinterpreted: influenced by a distant East, painted with a controlled irregularity, and sometimes given a new spin through enlarged versions. Batik is preferred in not-too-literal versions, and Indienne plays on mimicry to steer clear of archetypes.

Voir la fiche exposant



Drawn with precision and in joyful colours, funny animals with the look of characters won over buyers. Symbolic figuratives wander through leaves and everyday objects with panache, while shrubs and mountains in placed motifs invite freedom of expression and are traced out with verve and energy.

Voir la fiche exposant



Floral themes continue their advance in a plurality of graphic styles. Bouquets and petals have precise, flattened, very-drawn outlines, and botanicals feature acid accents. With their dark tones on obscure grounds, winter flowers are preferred romantic. They are also appealingly neat, in mini floret all-overs.

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Choices turn to geometry when it is quite small and rigorous, in almost optically interlinked designs, for visual effects that nearly demand to be viewed under a microscope. Checks, herringbones and stripes, transposed for prints, also caught the eye.

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Best Autumn/Winter 17/18

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3 days of surveys at Première Vision Fabrics

296 weavers interviewed, in 12 sectors

257 samplings collected

Quantitative and qualitative data

A complete analysis of buyers’ choices

Day-by-day analysis in The Daily News

Buyers want something cosy, and comfort that makes no style concessions. Autumn-winter 1718 is primed for fantasy and elegance. It’s time for lightness and warm suppleness… along with quality technology prized more for its actual functions than look.

Dense suppleness

Suppleness is high on everyone’s list. This consensus is written into a broader story of elegance, moving away from a casual nonchalance, and evident in both women’s and menswear. Full, dense, alive and pliant handles met with success: draping, enveloping, free of any rigidity, and above all always elegant. These choices open up a whole new field of chic contemporary looks combining presence and agility. As a result, diagonals are the highest they’ve been in the surveys for 10 years. Choices also indicate a return to blends with viscose and Lyocell.

Offbeat patterns

Fantasy takes off: choices went to patterns that turned their backs on standard archetypes. The houndstooths and Prince of Wales selected were offbeat and distorted, with new scales and colourways to give them a new twist. Check favourites – enlarged to the max in jacket and coat weights – stepped away from traditional looks. Strange, darkly romantic flowers were among the favourites in prints, and out-scale motifs were liked in jacquards and lace. For outdoors, camouflage patterns tended to precious or figured versions, in unusual colourways.

Frank regularity

Buyers are on a hunt for perfection this season. They want absolute plains, really regular structures, visibly neat constructions, totally smooth surfaces. The desired look is neat and chic, in suitings as well as in technical synthetics, and above all in jacket- and pant-weight cottons. Even menswear heads off in this new direction: plains overtake blurries and chinés.

Weightless warmth

It’s winter: buyers can’t escape a need for comfort. The game-changer this season: wool warmed up with a light hand. The protective performants buyers selected are cosy, fluffy and soft. This wave of warmth surges through fancies and decorative grounds too, putting velvets front and centre: embroidered, printed, jacquards, and yarn-dyed velvets.

Multi-colour darks

In a real surprise for a winter season, multi-colour aspects scored very well, in both the men’s and women’s markets. Buyers like dark and multicolour fabrics, far removed from gaily-coloured looks. They enjoyed this different way of working tone-on-tones, and the secret richness brought by colour depth.

A definite yes to recycled fibres

Fewer declarations and good intentions this season, but instead a concrete turn towards ecological and responsible production. The demand for fabrics made from recycled fibres increased significantly in all sectors. These textiles are even starting to seduce the fancy women’s market. The most committed buyers were those in active sports and jeanswear.

Yarns make the difference

This season, a fabric’s seductive appeal derived from the creativity of its yarns. The surprising handles that appealed to buyers derived from the twist and density of the fabric’s yarns. The singular plays on weaves that caught the eye of show visitors relied on a subtle use of fancy yarns inserted in stripes, checks, jacquards and embroideries.


Sport & Outdoor

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No more running after citywear here. Buyers have dropped any thought of mimicking either tailoring or casualwear…They are doubling down on a real meeting of natural and synthetic fibres that optimizes functional products. And they are re-focusing on technological features, the notion of fundamental comfort. This search for performance combines with eco-responsible approaches, with an 8-fold increase in requests for recycled polyesters.

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Delicate protection

Constriction-free protection is the goal this winter 1718. All the light performant textiles were chosen: featherweight waterproofs and wind-stops, slimmer bondings, stretch and weightless multilayers. Suppleness had its highest score in 10 years, confirming that priority is given to fabrics that know how to accompany the body, even in dense versions, with shape-memory, malleable and fuller textiles.

Huggably soft

This winter, buyers are going for technical fabrics that are cosy, like plush toys for children. Another story focused on comfort! Fans of polyesters with finely sueded surfaces, buyers went beyond mere surface softness, diving into the softness of double-faces with thermal backs, soft fleeces, sleek furs, and woolly interiors.

Ultra-smooth surfaces

Plains score the highest they ever have, relegating semi-plains and crepons to the back shelf. The requests were unanimous: no irregularity. Smoothness, evenness, and simple structures – everything that makes the glory of plain weaves and twills. Added-value is sought in density and the quality of materials.

Neo camouflage

There’s nothing military about the selections, even though the selected motifs are directly inspired by lattices. Preferred camouflage patterns move decisively away from uniforms, and are now reflecting, subtly metallic, stylised like pixels, elaborated in jacquards and featuring colourings decidedly not inspired by nature.








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Winter 1718 champions the very DNA of casualwear. Buyers’ requests centre on relaxed looks that have stopped trying to move closer to tailoring. A sea change! Comfortable and comforting, versatile and easy to wear, the look-good/feel-good fabrics this season all have a touch of fantasy…a touch of originality is expected.


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Sly checks

Off-kilter authentics find favour. Selected checks are all slightly shifted: not quite plaids, not quite ginghams, not quite windowpanes. Colourways are offbeat too, and fancy yarns are game-changers.


Cosy tops

Even more than in other sectors, casual tops have to be warm and enveloping. Ultra brushed and supple cottons; truly velvety knits and creamy interlocks.



Another take on fleece

Sweats, the key item in the relaxed wardrobe, feature fancier knits: fleeces with exaggeratedly bouclé interiors, double jerseys with a woolly aspect, or stitch-plays borrowed from sweaters.





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Boosted velvets

A wave of velveties emerged last winter, and this season it focuses on fancy corduroys. Buyers look for very visible ribs and printed or figured velvets that are resolutely supple and light.


Seductive regularity

Perfection and neatness are expectations shared by all the different markets, but take on an unexpected dimension in premium relax. Designers opted for very well drawn diagonals, and perfectly structured plains.


Benevolent suppleness

The comfort demanded of outer-layer pieces favour suppleness combined with brushed or emerised finishings. A cosy flexibility, especially seen in pant weights, where stretch is a must! In denim, buyers noted fabrics with a knit/woven ambiguity.


Fluidity over all

The casualwear market clearly prefers fluidity to firmness. This is rendered even more evident by the increase in compositions incorporating Lyocell or viscose. A direction opening the door to decidedly more feminine casualwear.