THE GLOBAL EVENT FOR FASHION PROFESSIONALS | 13-15 September 2016
THE GLOBAL EVENT FOR FASHION PROFESSIONALS | 13-15 September 2016

Première Vision Paris focuses on insiders’ creativity

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With each of its campaigns, Première Vision focuses on the talents who embody creativity.

Last September, Première Vision Paris paid tribute to young designers and fashion students.

For the upcoming Première Vision New York and Première Vision Istanbul shows, “locals” who represent their own creative culture will take center stage.

For its February 2016 edition, the show’s organizers wanted to turn the spotlight on the designers and creatives who work on the upstream side of the industry.

They are the weavers, tanners, furriers, accessory manufacturers, knitters and creative and textile design studios that dream up, invent and create the collections that bring the magic of fashion to life.

 They are the rarely seen and heard talents within the industry.
… And yet, as the tagline states: “Without them fashion would not be nearly as inspired.”


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From left to right and bottom to top: Federica Martini Masoni, Style Office Chief – Masoni Industria Conciaria / Takao Ozaki, Creative Director – A-Girl’s / Jeremy Somers, Creative Director and Designer – Circleline / Rosa Pujol, Creative Manager – Gratacos, Riccardo Bruni, Textile Designer – Lyria / Wendy Richard, Style Manager – Mégisserie Richard

 

As a bonus, there is a video of the making of this campaign, which was shot behind the scenes at the recent Paris show.

 

Wataru Tominaga wins the Grand Jury Première Vision Prize in Hyères

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The 31st International Festival of Fashion and Photography in Hyères has just concluded and it left in the air explosive innovation grooves.

This year the jury was presided over by Julien Dossena, the artistic director of Paco Rabanne, who awarded the Grand Jury Première Vision Prize to the Japanese designer Wataru Tominaga, for his mens collection.  The young Japanese designer who graduated from Central Saint Martins  in London, was chosen out of 10 other young international designers thanks to an innovative collection with masculine and feminine elements, which plays with – nerd and hippie styles. 

31st edition of the International Festival of Fashion and Photography at Hyères Villa Noailles

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21.04 – 25.04.2016

The 31st edition of the International Festival of Fashion and Photography at Hyères will take place at the villa Noailles between the 21 st and the 25 th of April, 2016. The exhibitions will run until the 22nd of May. The festival directed by Jean- Pierre Blanc and presided over by Didier Grumbach, annually encourages and supports young artists in the fields of fashion and photography.

http://www.villanoailles-hyeres.com/fimph2016/

 

The Woolmark Company

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 The Woolmark Company today gathers some 23,000 wool producers under a brand that is now a synonym for textile quality. Its world famous logo celebrated its 50th anniversary in 2014.”We promote the work of our partners, while also supporting wool research and innovation, from yarn to finished product,” explains Christina del Gobbo. The Wool Lab, the trend books created each season by this non-profit organisation, provide a privileged vantage point to spot new trends in how wool is used, especially merino wool. “The breathable and insulating properties, resistance and natural elasticity of the new merino wool fabrics make it a perfect material for sportswear and outdoorwear,” continues the association’s country manager for France, emphasizing a renewed interest in summer-version wools in ready-to-wear.

More information =>

Cocktail Maison

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Having both worked in textile designs for over 10 years, Yann Servant and Aurélie Boussuge decided just a few months ago to interconnect their creative universes, choosing Première Vision to make their official debut. The Cocktail Maison studio born of their collaboration is thus a combination of two artistic souls: a Pop universe featuring vibrant colours and Japanese-style graphic details by Aurélie Boussuge; and a rock inspiration by Yann Servant, who channels his passion for drawing in a gallery of subtly ironic animal mascots. With surfer-zebras, rogue foxes and giant burgers, a street and urban universe emerges, laced with a touch of very contemporary humour.

More information =>

Laura Campion, Fashion Print Design Studio

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English, not yet thirty, Laura Campion debuted at Première Vision Designs with a collection inspired by lush tropical vegetation. “The floral and animal worlds have been part of my design DNA from the start. This season, I wanted to combine a palette of bright colours with stylized graphic lines, sometimes inspired by engravings, sometimes by freehand drawing. Contrasting visual registers is a recurrent feature in my research, like these zebras in quite Pop, purple tones that I chose to print on a neo-romantic old-rose background,” says the designer. Fresh, deeply optimistic, her imaginary world is just the ticket for beachwear, and to bring a ray of sunshine to women’s fashions.

 More information =>

REPORT OF THE SOURCING CONFERENCE BY IFM

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THE NEW PANORAMA OF GLOBAL SOURCING: HOW THE EURO IS RESHUFFLING THE CARDS.

At the latest edition of Premiere Vision Paris (16-18 Feb. 2016 / Parc des Expositions Paris Nord – Villepinte), and in the framework of the Chair launched jointly with the IFM (French Institute of Fashion) dedicated to ‘The economics of creative materials for fashion’, Première Vision organized a conference presenting the new panorama of global sourcing last February 16 and 18.
Based on a study conducted by the IFM, and moderated by Gildas Minvielle, Director of the Economic Observatory of the IFM, the conference proposed a roundup and analysis of the mapping of global sourcing.

Nothing will be the same as before: China remains, of course, the leading supplier of the EU and the USA in clothing, but it is now strongly challenged by other Asian countries (Bangladesh, Viet Nam, Cambodia), which are growing in strength and tracing new routes for textile industry supply. The map of global apparel sourcing is evolving, as indicated by the survey conducted by the French Institute of Fashion and presented at Premiere Vision Paris.

While changes in the prices of raw materials (upward pressure on cotton prices and a decline in synthetic fibres following the fall of the price of oil) and an increase in wage costs (multiplied by 3.5 over the past 10 years in China according to the Werner cabinet) may explain these recent changes in the sourcing map, it is especially the 20 per cent rise of the dollar against the euro which weighs particularly heavily, because its impact affects the entire production chain and not simply one of its components.

China remains the main supplier worldwide, with 39% of market share, but this percentage has capped in recent years, while we are witnessing the rise of other nearby countries, like Bangladesh and Viet Nam. In the EU, where clothing imports rose by 10.2% (80.9 billion €), those from China showed positive growth (+ 6.9%), but lower volume (-12.2%). This is as opposed to Bangladesh (+24% in value, +3.6% in volume), Cambodia (+ 32.4% in value, + 13.4% in volume) and Viet Nam (+ 24.3% in value, + 2.4% in volume).

This trend should continue to be confirmed, according to the results of the survey conducted by the IFM of 100 brands and labels. Some 49% of those replying to the survey believe that supplies from China will decrease in 2016 in favour of the Bangladesh-Cambodia-Viet Nam trio (the latter having become the second leading supplier to the USA). This change will maximize the margin between the cost and sales price. The three countries have very highly equipped factories and a high quality labour force, often due to Chinese investment.

In addition, some countries, such as Bangladesh, have benefited from the System of Generalized Preferences* which has favoured exports to the EU. At play in their favour are moderate wage costs ($68 is the monthly minimum wage in Bangladesh, between $105 and $156 for Viet Nam, and $140 in Cambodia, as opposed to $155 to $321 in China). In the region, an outsider, Myanmar, is emerging in the market, but there will be a need to wait another 5 to 6 years (the time to train the workforce and create infrastructure) before it becomes truly operational.

2016 should also mark a rise in supplies from Turkey (65% of those interviewed were convinced of this), and from Morocco, while Tunisia, already stalled in 2015 (-5.4% in value and 6.5% in volume) is expected to show a further decline.

Also showing increases are manufacturers from Eastern Europe – Moldova, Macedonia, Albania, and Serbia (the latter jumped 176 places in 10 years) – which have the advantage of proximity with Turkey, facilitating the delivery of fabrics. All these countries lend themselves very well to short and medium term sourcing.

In the USA, which is not affected by fluctuations in the exchange rate, there has been a 3.5% rise in imports and a decline in prices of 2.9%. There is no equivalent to the System of Generalized Preferences for textiles as there is in Europe. A greater number of countries are therefore solicited, especially in Asia, but also in sub-Saharan Africa (thanks to the benefits of the African Growth and Opportunity Act) and, more nearby, in the Caribbean and Central America.

What will be the impact of this increase in cost of production on the sale prices? ‘Partial’, according to 54% of respondents. «It will not happen,» according to 36%. But the answer is total for 10% of those surveyed, though none of them wants to be the first to initiate an increase. The idea appears rather to play on extended ranges, with prices higher for the higher-quality segments and competitive prices for low-priced goods, so the average remains unchanged.

To enable companies to cope, there are a few solutions: reduce the sales periods representing reduced margins; favour added value in order to sell the most expensive products; concentrate the purchases of raw materials and reduce the number of suppliers to obtain the most attractive prices.

Focus on Turkey

The third leading clothing supplier to the EU (9 billion €), and second in terms of textiles despite a small drop in volume in 2015 (-3.7%), Turkey represents 3.5% of world clothing exports (by value). In particular, Turks have demonstrated a real know-how in terms of innovation in denim, for which they have become one of the leading suppliers to the EU in the womenswear sector, and third for menswear. Turkey is also the second largest supplier of t-shirts for the EU. Its leading European client is Germany (18%), while France accounts for only 5% of exports. The domestic market is developing with the same dynamism. This year, the number of malls should exceed 400, located throughout the country.

*The Generalized System of Preferences (GSP) in the EU proposed reductions of customs duties (20%) or duty-free access to the Community market for exports from 178 developing countries and territories. The Community scheme gives special benefits to the 49 least developed countries and countries implementing certain standards in the areas of labour and the environment. The EU has granted these preferences without requiring consideration from the recipient countries.

SEASON’S MOTIFS & DECORATIVE DESIGNS

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Discover the patterns and prints chosen by buyers for spring summer 17 at Première Vision Designs during the Paris show this February 2016.

Above all, the spring summer season celebrates flowers!

A precise hand illustrates a sometimes slightly out-dated romanticism. Prickly herbariums and sweet colours,
frankly pop, flat, simplified and enlarged flowers,
accompanied by a more vegetal-style exoticism,
with foliage painted with generosity and liveliness.

 Another highly requested direction evokes the inhabitants of these worlds with birds and animals of the forest, or everyday objects like fruits, candies and stylized characters.

Patterns are rather large, they move away from mini interpretations and cheerfully embrace highly colourful choices. Also noted was an increase in buyers’ choices for mixed motifs, different writing styles patched together, mixes of flowers and geometries with carefully studied placements.

Discover all these transversal decorative highlights at the embroiderers, in shirtings or even in our favourites !

PRICKLY ROMANTICS

PRICKLY ROMANTICS

Prickly herbaria and archival flowers, a re-appropriation of the classics, in somewhat faded and nicely blended tones. Romanticism is chosen in sugary sweet or dark, grating versions. Techniques range from the ultra precise, to fine watercolour brushstrokes, never photographic and highly drawn.

Voir la fiche exposant

EVERYDAY DELIGHTS

EVERYDAY DELIGHTS

The pop universe continues to enchant, with colourful fruit panoplies and skilfully organised characters, neatly outlined, and sometimes in grating colours. Pencils and felt markers step into these scenes, which often require a second look for a correct reading.

Voir la fiche exposant

JOYFUL COMPOSITIONS

JOYFUL COMPOSITIONS

Choices focused on geometries mixed with flowers, graphic patches and mixes of motifs. Recomposed boubous, cut and pasted elements and key shapes are juxtaposed with a striking freshness.

Voir la fiche exposant

TROPICAL LIVELINESS

TROPICAL LIVELINESS

Jungles are inhabited by incongruous birds, foliage and plantings, drawn spontaneously or with precise contours. There's always a certain liveliness to these expressions that attracted buyers and are enhanced with bold colours.

Voir la fiche exposant

Women’s

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PROVOKING UNSTEADY BALANCES

Focusing on a “cubist” skirt, prettily disordered,
on contrasting and mixed stripes, asymmetric folds and irregular pleats,
elaborated pre- or post-garment manufacturing.
Yarn-dyed or printed shirting-style cottons or everyday silkies. Playing on improbable blends right through to ribbons, accessories and trims, zips and jewellery.

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COVERED WITH TRANSPARENCY

Transposing transparency and ultra-lightness onto outer-layer pieces.
Coats crispy as tracing paper, trenches with glass reflections or fine-crafted cottony jackets. Contradictory layers over deliberately contrasting pants and tops. Plastics over rustics, naturals over artificials.
Trims become invisible and deliberately synthetic.

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BOOSTING THE SIMPLICITY OF THE DRESS

Paring down shape to the extreme simplicity of a rectangle, then gracefully puckering, gathering, tying. Favouring featherweight linens and shirting cottons, delicate rustics and decoration with light stippling.  
Contrasting the look with accessories and trimmings, playing with plastics and metals in dynamic colours.

 

 

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Men’s

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SUBVERTING SUITS

Boldly designing a non-conformist suit. Brazenly doing without the jacket, replacing it with a woven top, while hewing to the elegance of fine combed wools, discreet end-on-ends and rigorous mohairs.
Pushing the boundaries of ‘no gender’ with almost feminine embellishments, not refraining from carefully engineered embroideries, or flowers in hidden or tiny details.

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POETIC OVERALLS

Taking overalls out of workwear and jeanswear and transposing them into chic and light versions for the city. Selecting only refined linens, plainly lighter-weight denims, elegant and relaxed vegetal suitings. Borrowing details directly from suits and shirts, tailored collars and pockets, buttoned cuffs, discreet zips.

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ASSEMBLING IN CONTRADICTION

Enjoying exploding garment proportions, emphasising a bermuda in a baggy street version and contrasting it with a narrow jacket, freely mixing fits and lengths.
Setting slightly rustic blurry woollens and suitings against technical canvases and gabardines or luggage-like pure polyamide. Contrasting ultra chic trimmings and finishings or a sartorial detail with worn looks and aged metal in a jeanswear vein.  

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Casualwear

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WOMENSWEAR

JOYFULLY UNCOORDINATED

Relaxing and rejuvenating the dress to wear like a tee-shirt.
Sketching out a relaxed and fanciful femininity composed of spontaneous assemblies, stitched or even glued with adhesive tapes, zips and decorated snaps.
Fluid crepons, light knits, Pop-like decorations or graphic embroidery and openwork worked in friendly and cheerful combinations.

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WOMENSWEAR

ENERGISING NAÏVETÉ

Adding together lace and relaxed fleece, thinking extra-mini!
Easy-wearing, frilly openwork lace, slightly synthetic eyelet embroidery.
Supple fleece and refined terries with artificial handles.
Accessories with a corsetry influence, in plastic and lace mixes, both hi-tech and hyper-feminine.

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MENSWEAR

ENERGIZING THE UTILITARIAN

Giving a fresh take to the workwear and utilitarian trend, and cultivating anti-camouflage with sturdy, colourful cottons or synthetics, lush decoration on sportswear and jeanswear bases, jungles and flowers to grow patinated with time. Bringing large volumes, the oversized, comfortable ease and an all-terrain approach together with sparkling and clearly visible decoration. Using colourful braids, broadly belting, playing with deliberately fun finishings to stride through the city like in search of new fashion territories to conquer.

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MENSWEAR

CANDIDLY CHARMING

Adopting a menswear romanticism, a casual fluidity, a faded but not cutesy softness.
Drawing on the features of jogging wear for elegant pants in cottons and linens blended with lyocell or cupro. Deconstructing the fresh and languid shirt in silky or very lightweight versions. Gracefully flowering, exaggerating with a coy smile.
Cultivating refinement down to the last detail, with chiné zips, buttons and fasteners with a watercolour patina and whitened metals.

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