THE GLOBAL EVENT FOR FASHION PROFESSIONALS | 13-15 September 2016
THE GLOBAL EVENT FOR FASHION PROFESSIONALS | 13-15 September 2016

Radiance rising from shadow.

KYOTO AVRIL 2016

The darks for autumn winter 1718 are light rising from shadow. Checks, Prince of Wales and other geometrics meld into dark tone-on-tones, “night watchman and earthly depths.”
Whether “Fuchsia DNA” or ‘Emerald’, deep brights play on disturbing contrasts.
Motifs are revealed in glints, like photos emerging in the dark room. Elegantly, dark colours invent subtle stories amongst themselves, where darkened brights are gems.
A flash in the shadow, this winter composes a heady and stormy, but never murky, symphony.

 

HI-TOP AND ZENTEX

RAMPONI

 

Discover inspiration by visiting The Forum at the heart of the Première Vision show, from 13 to 15 September 2016.

Skin-deep materials

Ramponi

(picture : Ramponi)

Soft labels in precious materials, supple second-skins, gummy finishings with rich and pleasing handles, soft and eco-friendly leatherette, rounded micro studs that meld softly into base materials: there’s a whole host of chapters in the story of handles that, from fabrics to accessories, focus on skin-like sensations in their new quest for softness.

At Ramponi (Première Vision Accessories, 4G29 4H28), skins play on trompe-l’oeil effects: new studs with rounded shapes and natural colours blend gently into the base materials for an imitation second skin effect.

reca

For Italian label specialist Reca (Première Vision Accessories, 4E35 4F36), the demand for comfort is a founding principle. While fine and stretchy thermo-adhesive labels in seamless polyurethane film continue to win unanimous favour for their second-skin effect, the latest news is a 100% silk and cashmere sewn label whose luxurious and natural handle promises to open new sensory horizons in an ever more virtual world.

Chiorino

Gummy, natural but also extremely technical finishings at  Chiorino (Première Vision Leather, 3D1 3E2), further this story of rich and pleasing handles. In smooth or honeycomb versions, the gummy and opaque skins at this Italian company are remarkable for their flexibility and softness.

Leathertex

The lacquered and moving leatherette and laser cut-outs combining skins and fabrics developed by Leathertex (Première Vision Fabrics, 6G17) sare even more perfect for stretch pants and coats as their production requires no harmful chemical agent.

Eurojersey

And we close the skin-deep story at the Italian company Eurojersey (Première Vision Fabrics, 6G6 6H9), with their Sensitive® range of fabrics, where a high percentage of Lycra assures a gluey fluidity and an inimitable softness. The latest product in the range, Sensitive® Grace, combines high performance with featherweights (80 g/m2), for comfort worthy of a true second skin.

Joyful excess

Circleline

(Design : Circleline)

From macro motifs to plays on scale and volume, over-size accessories and coarse-count yarns, the new season heralds a joyful excess.

The macro scale and plays on layers are also at the heart of new research at Circleline (Première Vision Designs, 5W32) : This English design studio interprets a return to a hand-drawn and pictorial look inspired by the works of artists such as Picasso and Matisse, and a new youthfulness in classic geometric patterns – from paisleys to polka dots and squares – all updated by a preference for full, generous proportions.


Laude

At Dentelles André Laude (Première Vision Fabrics, 5K5), from France, large floral motifs take the lion’s share, both for wedding dresses and cocktail. Whether figurative or abstract, the over-size motifs proposed by this lace-maker from Calais Caudry are strikingly contrasted with large honeycombed grounds that maximise visual impact via a 3D effect.

UTT

Woven into this intersection between a search for visual impact and architectural volumes, the trend to excess extends to yarns as well, as confirmed by The Union Textile de Tourcoing (Première Vision Yarns, 6G61) : from coarse count yarns (1,9,2) to yarns to knit together in loose 1/2 or 3 gauges, or tone-on-tone combinations of bouclette in a variety of gauges, coarse counts give yarns tactile as well as visual texture.

Riri

At Riri (Première Vision Accessories, 4G35 4H34), this quest for size is above all synonymous with personality: the large format nickel-free zippers (in 10, 14 metal) offered by this Italian company in a wide range of tone-on-tone colours are coordinated with buttons, making these accessories style-setters on their own, for both clothing and leather goods. For bigness with style and finesse.

REFINED RUSTICITY

couleurs rusticite

A rudimentary look combined with sophisticated elegance.

Subtly imperfect looks and handles are especially sought-after for pared-down and essential shapes.

Technically transparent outer layers are mixed with crunchy pants or skirts with raw handles, while lightweight synthetics are deliberately paired with natural materials:

ligne couleurs3

Two silhouette highlights: a translucent, almost plastic trench layered over rustic pants, and an ultra-lightweight linen dress resembling a rectangle lightly cinched at the waist with a string-tie.

linnoue

trenchtransparent

BOLDLY CASUAL

Couleurs-audacieuse-1

A desire to overturn dress codes and combine opposites, to invite in assymetry and switch-up lines.

ligne couleurs2

A celebration of motifs mixed together in the same garment, of seemingly improbable combinations, of spontaneous folds, drapings, and knots.
Stripes, a strong-point of this fashion theme, show an urge for contrast. They are graphic and wide, crossed and mixed with irregular pleats, and structured in disorderly panels.

jupe_asymetrique

patchmotifs

The city elegance of sports

Schoeller

(picture : Schoeller)

Multifunctional yet beautiful, high-performant yet elegant: new fabrics and accessories are evolving in line with the growing importance of sport and fitness in everyday citywear, with solutions that blur the boundaries between work and leisure, between going out to practice a sport, and just going out.

While running remains the model of urban elegance born of a desire for well-being, mountaineering and horseback riding provided sources of inspiration for the Cosmopolitan collection by Swiss company Schoeller Textil (Première Vision Fabrics, 6J14) : Here, 3XDRY® and coldblack® treatments give fabrics a range of breathable and anti-UV properties, while the changeTM membrane makes them waterproof and wind-resistant. This performant and ecological fabric collection also includes washable wools, featherweight stretch textiles and anti-pilling shape-memory fabrics, to meet all the needs of the new urban spirit that is as demanding in terms of performance as it is of style.

Specialists in elastic polyurethane ribbons for 30 years, the Italian company Framis (Première Vision Accessories, 4E19) is well placed to confirm this trend of hybridizing city style codes. Its latest product, Dream silk, pairs the technical properties of ribbons drawn from the sports universe with a silky touch and a chromatic range (metallic black and brown), made to appeal to major luxury and ready-to-wear brands.

 

HerMin

 

For Her Min (Première Vision Fabrics, 6K19), this versatility is more than a simple trend, it’s a true philosophy based on “Urban Outdoor” or “Athleisure,” both of which are rewriting the codes of urban elegance with a marked dynamism. A fine demonstration is found in the 3Layers laminated cotton and nylon fabric developed by this Taiwanese company, a textile combining a natural handle and a knitted side with stretch, waterproof, breathable and wind-resistant properties, for off-road clothing with an innate elegance.

 

 

 

MUST-HAVE FABRICS

Maciek_Jasik_watermelon


Suppleness and fluidity

Everyday ease elegantly expressed, with full volumes favoured for bottoms:

  • fluid and springy cotton-viscose
  • silky crepes in cellulosic blends
  • supple silk-linen blends
  • shivering creponned fabrics
  • lightweight, linen-wool suitings
  • washed denims 

 

060_LINOPERSEMPRE_PVFABRICS_SS17_RELAX

DEBS_TEXTILE_CORPORATION_PVFABRICS_SS17

JA_FABRIC_BY_TAKISADA_NAGOYA_PVFABRICS_SS17_BM

PHILEA_PVFABRICS_SS17

 

 

Weightless transparency

Transparency for outer layers, to superimpose for silhouette contrast. Jackets and tops, dresses, apron-dresses, overalls and shirts are given new, all-light interpretations.

  • organdy and organza with cut-yarn motifs
  • semi-opaque gauzes
  • iridescent translucent techniques
  • ultra-light shirtings
  • second-skin knits

 

032_MITSUBOSHI_KEITO_PVFABRICS_SS17_RELAX

206_TISSAGES_DENIS_FILS_PVFABRICS_SS17_SILK

BRUGNOLI_GIOVANNI_PVFABRICS_SS17_BM

ELYAF_TEKS_PAZ_PVFABRICS_SS17

 

Expressive irregularities

Linen – subtly but surely – emerges as an obvious partner for the poorly-ironed and slightly rumpled aspect it provides.
Imperfect visuals, little slubs and discreet textures, a celebration of not-smooth and crunchy fabrics, for new shape interpretations.

  • slubbed linen twills
  • brittle silk shantungs
  • dense, snapping cotton poplins
  • irregular linen knits

 

055_KLASIKINE_TEKSTILE_PVFABRICS_SS17

191_O_JERSEY_PVFABRICS_SS17_KN

211_MONOTEX_SHINHEUNG_PVFABRICS_SS17_TECH

YOUNG_TEXTILE_PVFABRICS_SS17

 

Outer-layer fantasy

A focus on silhouette-topping pieces! Coats, blousons and jackets are enriched with decoration and jacquards, are printed and over-embroidered, to bring fantasy into everyday.

  • wide-striped weavings
  • dry and supple raffia
  • printed silky synthetics
  • over-embroidered techniques
  • lined lace and guipure

 

008_ARSAN_PVFABRICS_SS17_RELAX

197_RICAMIFICIO_GIMAR_PVFABRICS_SS17_EMB

LANIFICIO_FAISA_PVFABRICS_SS17_BM

LEMAR_PVFABRICS_SS17

 

 

MUST HAVE DÉCORS

MarinaEsmeraldo


Les rayures, c’est sûr !

Larges, contrastées, les rayures sont graphiques et s’expriment sur tous les supports : tissés, tricotées, en tissé teint et aussi en impression.
Majoritairement bayadères, elles peuvent aussi s’imaginer mobiles, désaxées, et jouer avec les plissés et les reliefs.

 

169_GUIGOU_PVFABRICS_SS17_KN

J_VIEW_PVFABRICS_SS17

QUORUM_PVFABRICS_SS17

ULYSSE_PILA_REYNAUD_REXO_PVFABRICS_SS17

 


Les fleurs en évidence

De toute petite échelle, romantiques et éparpillées, ou franchement agrandies, simplifiées et généreuses, les registres sont variés mais la fleur est partout !
Elle se décline sur des fonds sombres, en version luxuriante du soir, mais aussi en version très dessinée et sur des fonds enrichis tels des crêpons, des jacquards ou des broderies.

088_ADALBERTO_PINTO_DA_SILVA_PVFABRICS_SS17_PR

KBC_FASHION_PVFABRICS_SS17

RICAMIFICIO_GIMAR_PVFABRICS_SS17_BM

SFATE_COMBIER_PVFABRICS_SS17_2

 

 

 

 

RADIANT ENERGY

couleurs-rayonnante

Dynamic and feminine high-summer styles celebrating the alliance between comfortable and charming, everyday and sexy.

ligne couleurs1

detailbretellebainBeach and wellness sport-looks boldly revitalise the evening wardrobe, as in this stretchily fluid jumpsuit in supple crepe, with a silky and elastic thickness. Lingerie steps out for everyday, with lace and embroidery worked into fleece items, or a slip of a spaghetti-strap camisole for day.

detailbretellebain

dentelle

detailbretellebaindetailbretellebain

A brushup

LanificioColombo

(picture : Lanificio Colombo)

Classic velvets or tousled hairies, warm woollens or aged metallics, brushed effects delineate a trend that grows season after season.

At Lanificio Colombo (Première Vision Fabrics, 6M2), brushing has been built into the DNA of the company since its inception. For the next winter season, the latest brushup adds shine to long, smooth and straight hairs of ultra classic wools and cashmeres, or lends a touch of personality to the tousled, untamed hairs of opaque and moving woollens for an exceptionally modern rendering.

Nastrificio De Bernardi (Première Vision Accessories, 4F03 4G04) reaffirms this double trend that hinges on brushing: with, on the one hand, their ribbons in classic wool velvet or warm mohair, or, on the other, their elegantly-aged rusty metallic prints.

chimont

Velvety or hairy handles are also front and centre at Chimont Leather (Première Vision Leather, 3A56), combining brushed laminates, waxings and finishings on calf or split leather to obtain sticky, naturally shiny effects, or aged metallic aspects.


 

Incalpaca

 

The Alpaca specialist, Incalpaca (Première Vision Fabrics, 6P3) confirms this trend to long-haired, almost furry, woollens, which brushings give a more natural look to: the sable-like wools from this Peruvian company – which won a Première Vision Award in September 2015 – continue their upswing.

 

SUBSCRIBE TO OUR NEWSLETTER