Go to our series of exclusive videos to watch exhibitors preview their expertise and strengths. Begin your immersion in the season’s new inspirations!
For buyers, stylists, designers, trend studios and fashion and design professionals from the most prestigious fashion houses, Première Vision Leather offers an unparalleled scope and allure.
While accessories made of horn are quite common, professional horn carvers are rare.
Zanchi Giovanni is one of the few who are entirely dedicated to the challenging craft of carving horns. Here, it is not so much the material that is precious as the skills and knowledge behind it, which includes selecting the raw materials in its home country, to processing and assembling objects like jewellery, clasps, buttons, buckles, handles, etc. Whether it is Indian buffalo, African cows, or European deer, as each horn is unique it is mostly hand carved, using tools that often the craftsman has made himself. It takes ten years of practice to master this delicate art, and to anticipate the finish of a material that only reveals its true colour when it is finally polished.
It is also good to know that to produce a sheet of corn (by flattening it when it is heated) there is 50 – 80% wastage, which explains the price, often considered to be too high. It is all this savoir-faire passed from father to son over three generations that creates the strength of Zanchi Giovanni, a family business that since 1952 has enchanted the fashion and luxury worlds with its elegant and inspired creations.
PREMIERE VISION ACCESSORIES HALL 4
Whether they are bling-bling or techno-fun, colourful and exuberant sneakers are certainly one of the highest profile accessories of the moment. From technical accessories to playful designs, Première Vision Accessories offers an abundant and varied range of products with something for everyone.
Uppers manufacturers, from New & Best to Publiesse, showcase their creativity with their combinations of materials, embossing, perforations, high-frequency bonding, micro-injection and digital printing.
Britigraf produces not only uppers, but also other components such as spoilers or openwork plastic like spacers.
There are details that really make the difference, such as shoe piping, and Idea 84 offers a very complete collection of these. For laces, fun and fashion are the watchwords: silicon tips, diamanté decoration, printed ends. Société Choletaise de Fabrication, WSG and Fashion Tex, to name just a few, have what it takes to satisfy every need. Studs are still popular: manufacturers such as Lunas or Modimex have renewed the range on offer, notably with their very refined mini-studs.
We also find decorations inspired by the luxury leather goods world such as leather buckle straps, ankle bracelets, clasps, chainettes and other shoe jewels. Val Vibrata and Griste offer these top-of-the-range components which transform sneakers into a couture accessory.
PREMIERE VISION ACCESSORIES HALL 4
Leather is not only a functional and aesthetic material. It is also a structural material whose physical properties – natural or artificial – can determine a shape. It just takes technique and savoir-faire to produce useful and innovative products. Leather to sculpt, leather to stretch, leather to mould…at Première Vision Leather show, the tanners give shape to all our desires.
Synonymous with liberty and sensuality, the suppleness of leather is appreciated by its aficionados. But it also gives shapes an undeniably ephemeral character. That is why certain imaginative and proactive tanners were inspired to combine leather with a self-supporting material that can thus produce forms that are both changeable and lasting. This is known as shape memory. So, after having split the leather, Marmara Deri bonded full or perforated lambskin with a very fine sheet of aluminium foil which was itself attached to fabric using a special glue. In a similar approach, the tannery Pistolesi separates lamb leather into two layers and sandwiches a sheet of foil between them. The grain side has a smooth finish rather like dipped leather while the flesh side is coated with a golden film. Their creators are proud of their articles, which are designed for use in footwear or leather goods, for consumers who are looking for playful products.
Although it is a malleable material, leather is not very stretchy and does not appreciate being pulled out of shape. But tanners have invented stretch leather by combining it with an elastic fabric that both supports it and allows it to make the most unexpected movements. “Our stretch leathers generally have around 30% elasticity,” says our contact at Cuirs du Futur, one of the leading specialists in this material. “Even our perforated leathers. We have just produced a patent stretch leather that is very interesting for shoes as it does not crack when stretched, and offers nearly 20% elasticity.” Similar performances are achieved by André Hiriar, which claims between 25% and 30% elasticity for its stretch items. “When they stretch, the collagen fibres in the leather are not broken and the leather will not sag”, explains a manager from the tannery. This makes it an ideal material for close-fitting garments like leggings, pencil skirts and thigh boots.
However, it is not easy to obtain such properties and the production process for stretch leather is very challenging. “We reduce the thickness of the leather to 0.25mm thanks to high precision splitting in a machine fitted with blades below and a drum above that absorbs the differences in thickness ” explains an expert from Joqueviel et Cathala. “Nourishing products also play their role in creating softness and the subsequent elasticity”. “The tanning process has to be very homogenous for the skin to be pared so thinly” adds a colleague from André Hiriar. The bonding uses a special glue that is not absorbed by the leather. “We use a lighter fabric for clothing and a stronger one for footwear”, Cuirs du Futur tells us. The leather is shrunk at the dyeing stage at André Hiriar or during the drum-drying stage for the washed calf leather from Nuova Antilope. A very delicate operation that requires great skill!
Smooth and suede stretch leathers Metallic stretch lamb leather Perforated stretch lamb leather Washed crispy stretch calf leather
by Cuirs du Futur by André Hiriar by Cuirs du Futur by Nuova Antilope
A shape-shifting product, leather can also be moulded to hold a given shape. Once it has been dampened by spraying or dipping, the leather softens and can then be pressed or stretched with clips over a wooden or resin mould. Left to dry naturally or in a structure at 35°, it hardens and retains the form it has been given. “Vegetable-tanned leather is the most suitable for moulding as when it is dampened the fibres are less horizontal and more likely to retain the shape of the mould“, explains a manager from the Swedish tannery, Tärnsjö Garveri. “We recommended moulding with vegetable-tanned leather that is between 1.5 and 4 mm thick,” adds a colleague from Tannerie Arnal,” Leather used for moulding must have little flesh ,” adds another expert from the Tannerie Masure.
Although the uses are limited, they are also very emblematic of leathers and its potential. “We provide the leather for the famous Brooks bicycle saddles,” the expert from the Scandinavian tannery proudly tells us. Moulded leather is also used in orthopaedics for items in contact with the skin. Pen, cigar or weapon cases and camera cases are also typical applications of moulded leather. Traditional objects that are continue to prove their worth.
PREMIERE VISION LEATHER HALL 3
With an impressive variety of embroideries, combined with laser and thermo-adhesive techniques, digital printing and needlework, the company has all the requisite skills for offering high added value in terms of graphic animation. Along with its mechanical or semi-manual embroidery techniques, such as Cornély, velvet, bouclette, chains and the placing of sequins, the company, which is the fruit of the merger of Ricamotex and Fashion Services, is now developing hand embroidery. From the design stage to the production of items in jersey, Agora offers its clients a complete cut and sewn service and customisation solutions on all textiles. In this collection that stands out for its reliefs and its combinations of techniques, do not miss the digital embroidery, available in large widths, giving a spectacular effect.
These days everything can be glued together and this company offers a varied range of high-quality solutions for the fashion, industrial and sport sectors in particular. With a very complete range of tools including coating, laminating, laser cut-out and engraving, Assems can glue up to four layers of all sorts of materials together (textiles, leatherette, foam, stretch knit, EVA, etc.). The company holds many patents, including a heat-bonded coated thread that has multiple applications, notably for sports shoes, bags and clothing. Strongly committed to sustainable development, the manufacturing processes do not use toxic solvents, nor do they create waste paper.
This Italian company founded in 1971 is a global player in textile packaging, producing shoe bags, shopping bags, pouches for leather goods and jewellery, packaging solutions for various sectors including tableware. The company’s strength is in their fully customisable products that can be adapted to each visual identity.
This manufacturer of metal accessories presents a complete collection of buttons, rings, press fasteners, rivets, sliders, cord stoppers, tips, brooches, pins, buckles, eyelets and clips, in high quality zamak and brass. The collection is completed by a selection of leather items including strips, buckle straps, fasteners and pompoms. In addition, the company recently added a jewellery department. Everything is designed by a team of in-house designers, made on site and can be tailored to each client’s tastes. With an elegant style and quality finish, this production is destined for the ready-to-wear, branded jeanswear and leather garment sectors, as well as footwear and leather goods and fashion jewellery.
Bracelets, necklaces, pendants, rings, cuff links, as well as decorations on bags and shoes – this jewellery company with its 400 qualified artisans, supplies not only components but also entirely hand-made pieces of jewellery. Made in solid silver, gold-plated brass, tin, enamel and resin, these items are midway between luxury and fashion. The most demanding clients will appreciate the quality of the work and the variety of products. While the palm chain is one of the house specialities, the collection is also rich in ornamental creations with decorative embroidery, original shapes and shimmering, luminous colours.
85 years after it was created, this company has become one of the most important labelling companies in the world. With a pool of 64 cutting-edge machines, the oldest just three years old, Harmanci offers not only a very high production capacity but also great technical and creative diversity and finely-executed items. The manufacturer is particularly proud of this last point, as the company produces labels with high-definition lettering, combinations of jacquards, prints and embossing with remarkable precision. Do not miss the witty and imaginative “cushion” labels and other pocket labels for spare buttons, and above all, the large sheets of digital jacquard made with ultra-fine thread, particularly suitable for covering bags, shoes and leather goods.
This manufacturer of jewellery components presents a very complete collection of cup-chains and all sorts of full or hollow mounts, with pointy backs or flat backs for gluing in almost all the forms of Swarovski crystals with which the company works. We also find a very wide range of pendants, small items, buckles, medallions, metal frames (mainly tombak), made using stamping and filigree and the desire to achieve perfection. The company also offers a galvanisation service, with a palette of natural colours such as gold, silver, copper and steel, that can be more or less shiny according to requirements. The company has become a specialist in shaped filigree, which can be rounded or wavy, very elegant and very high quality.
This German manufacturer is specialized in leather labels and work with many jeanswear brands. Landes is also strongly working to achieve good results in the responsible matter. They have developped a chrome free leather line which does not show any difference even after washing compared to a conventional chrome tanned leather. This special leather is a available in all colors and can be treated with all finishes the industry is asking for.
An Italian company founded in 1959, Legoplast was one of the first companies to introduce polypropylene into its production. It offers a wide range of plastic packaging for various sectors such as beachwear, lingerie, cosmetics and clothing. All of its products can be customised in terms of their material, size, print and closing.
This brand new company brings together three highly experienced professionals who have pooled their expertise to produce unique creations for the fashion and luxury worlds. Experts in macramé, trimmings, crochet, weaving, knitting, embroidery and the application of diamanté, they purchase the raw materials and transform them into braids, necklaces, trimmings, frogging, belts, handles and textile decorations. Everything is handmade and tailored to the needs of each client. Their collection is rich in original, elegant and spectacular models. And their particular strength is their mastery of working with volume, which is especially useful for jewellery, footwear and bags.
Mainetti is an Italian family company founded in 1961 by four brothers. It launched its activity producing hangars for the domestic market and rapidly expanded internationally. Mainetti then diversified its production and now offers paper bags, clothing bags, boxes and seals, employing more than 6200 people in over 50 countries. From the outset, the company was interested in the issues surrounding sustainable development, putting in place a hangar recycling system for its customers. Quality, innovation, flexibility and sustainability are the strengths of this Italian leader.
Although the adhesive is not the most visible element of an item, it plays a determining role in the quality of the end product. Nastroelle is a small company specialised in the manufacture of top-of-the range adhesives for luxury leather goods. It produces double-sided, highly transparent and strongly adhesive products which leave no traces and do not stain the fabrics. Even the finest of shoes will appreciate the very thin strips the company produces, starting from a width of just 3mm and that can be modelled so that they closely follow the curves and lines of all models, while brogues will boast a perfect finish thanks to the special laser-cut adhesive paper that protects the leather. There are other products to discover, such as hypo-allergenic adhesives for medical uses or silicon-coated films for the application of diamanté.
This family company, at the head of five subsidiaries located around the world, creates, develops and distributes ribbons, bows, ornaments, pouches, etc., mainly for lingerie and packaging in the luxury, perfume, gastronomy, wines and spirits sectors. Working very closely with their clients, Papillon offers bespoke solutions that include weaving, with threads provided by the client where required, folding, printing, tailoring, braiding and formatting. The work is particularly fine and detailed, producing decorations that can sometimes be quite minuscule. In particular, they offer a new 3D printing technique that is very fine, precise and just 0.6 mm high. In addition, it should be noted that the company holds the patent for the Ceco Box, a magnetic folding box for top-of-the-range packaging.
For more than 20 years, this company has been making labels, tags, seals and packaging for the ready-to-wear and jeanswear sectors, focusing primarily on creativity, differentiation and fashion, but also on the quality of the production. Rebildesign Fashion Labeling ensures it is always at the cutting-edge of trends in order to very rapidly offer its clients solutions that are both original and bang on trend. The collection does not only stand out for its variety but also for the skilful combination of materials (leather incrusted with fabric, placing of acrylic on a woven background, etc.) and the precision of its lettering and logos, whether they are produced using screen printing, jacquard, micro-injection or any other method.
This belt maker is based in England and targets a mid- to high-end market, made up of brands and stores, for the masculine and mixed sectors in an elegant fashion style. Entirely made in England, carefully finished using the best leathers, the articles are 100% handmade, from the weaving to the assembly and the addition of metal elements. The philosophy of the manufacturer is to not only follow trends but anticipate fashions and desires, working closely with its clients to meet their needs, offering the right quantity and the right style at the right moment.
An essential player in the zip sector, this manufacturer has clients around the world and has even trademarked its logo in more than 70 countries and regions. It combines a large production capacity with exacting quality standards. It was the first Chinese zip manufacturer to obtain ISO9001 certification and is currently working to satisfy the environmental standards of ISO14001. The collection includes a very large range of metal or plastic zips for the ready-to-wear sector, notably sportswear, as well as for luggage. In addition the company offers a complete collection of items for the sports, travel wear and outdoor sectors including cord stoppers, technical buckles, sports bag handles, hydration bottles and travel containers.
For 30 years, Scarpellini has been working with leading luxury labels to produce decorations on leather for footwear, leather goods and clothing. Everything is made in Italy, a guarantee of the quality. Embroidery, placing of diamanté and studs, sequins, beads, incisions, inclusion… Here, leather is not just the material; it becomes one with the decoration, however sophisticated the composition may be. Thanks to an experience team and the use of avant-garde materials, Scarpellini is able to offer solutions for research and prototype development as well as for the production phase.
Do you need customised soles or specific heels? Tacchificio…offers its savoir-faire and fast turnaround times to a clientele that is ever more demanding and in a hurry. Thanks to an energetic team that is always on the alert, the collection is enriched with new designs and new techniques throughout the year, not just twice a year. Soles, heels, platforms, uppers… here you will find very creative proposals, remarkable notably for the artistically sculptured forms and the very elaborate colouring procedures, ideal for dressy shoes like sandals as well as for boots and all elegant and fashionable city shoes.
A manufacturer of metal accessories for more than 60 years, this company boasts savoir-faire handed down over the generations coupled with modern tools and a team of talented designers. VAMP has successfully maintained the heritage of the company, using its archives as a source of inspiration and working in partnership with fashion and design schools. With a range of more than 70 different finishes, each element of the collection, including buckles, buttons, fasteners, fibula, crochet, hooks, etc. can be customised for each customer. The company works for the ready-to-wear, footwear and leather goods sectors, and anyone who loves beautiful objects and will particularly appreciate the elegance and modernity of their designs and the variety of finishes and patinas.
Located in Turkey, this embroidery company seeks to combine the savoir-faire of the East with the fashion sense of the West, the secular tradition of art embroidery and the permanent search for innovation, which leads it to experiment with new techniques and more contemporary styles. After a brilliant start, producing small quantities for the haute couture and luxury sectors, the company has increased its production capacity, focusing on ceremonial wear and bridal wear. But its ability to renew itself and its careful attention to fashion and the wishes of its clients is now allowing the company to broaden the areas in which it works.
Check the complete Première Vision Accessories exhibitors’ list HERE
PREMIERE VISION ACCESSORIES – HALL 4
TWIST & TURN
The season heads off in a new direction full of motion and lively textures, visuals and behaviours.
Knits will generate shapes that revolve around the body – wrap it, leave it in a spin and celebrate the bias.
STITCH & KNITS
SHAPES & CUTS
TWIST & TURN
Starting right from the yarns, the season heads off in a new direction full of motion and lively textures, visuals and behaviours.
Spinners’ fancy products will increase the visual impact of stitch plays.
YARNS & FIBRES
Discover inspiration by visiting The Forum at the heart of the Première Vision show, from 13 to 15 September 2016.
Autumn Winter 1718 enthusiastically shifts timelines, forming bridges between the past, present and future.
Audacious and fanciful, whether it produces a gentle transformation or an extravagant renaissance, this season is fascinated by bold polarisations, with accessories undergoing far-reaching changes.
//HUMANOID IMPRINTS //
Between genesis and cutting-edge genetics, a cyber-beauty is emerging, embodiment of a sensitive and sensual future.
A parallel universe so close that it begs to be touched an make the digital emotional.
//INSOLENT OPULENCE //
Epochs overlap: Renaissance, baroque, pop, futuristic, this chaos is reorganised with humour and is fascinating for the richness of its references.
A tasteful disharmony for this new season.
Modern chemistry and a need for magic are creating contemporary alchemists.
“TAKE A DETOUR”
Take a step sideways, evade deftly, get out of trouble.
Shake things up without offending anybody.
To escape from adversity, by heading off the beaten path,
To work discreetly, in the background, to create a new timelessness.”
Play down or fluff up ideas, make them immaterial.
Create a transparent bubble, break the glass ceiling.
The era of nasty graffiti artists is over, long live the sweet-making revolution!
Everyone is pleasing themselves, gorging on sweets and regressive cakes, with comforting, oozing colours.